Replies

1. 
   integrity_woodworks | Mar 24, 2009 05:53am | #1

   hello tinter

   yes stripper will take both the stain and finish off equally well.actually that is the key/to let the stripper soak evenlly and once every thing moves with a light

    

    swril of your brush. wipe with clean rags and use straw brushs to remove the old finish ,do not push to hard.that will only push the finish in to the pores ,its best to wash such a peice with laquer thinner after stripping(wear a resporator please).

   If you don,t mind me saying the upholstery does not look completted ,and repairs will be a huge pain .some people just naturelly do things backward(about 80% of my clients). then they ask daily why its taking so long lol.

   best of luck Dan the woodbug

1. 
   tinter | Mar 24, 2009 11:04pm | #7

   Thanks for the info Dan, I took the decorative nails and gimp off to protect as much as I could before I started refinishing. Then decided I had better ask some questions before I started anything. I am going to post some more images in another response. Chris

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 24, 2009 03:35pm | #2

   You can test the finish to see what it is.  I'm betting that it is most likely shellac unless it has been refinished before. To the extent the coloration is in the finish it will be removed if the finish is stripped.  A pigmented stain would also be removed.  Dyes have sometimes penetrated enough that the stripper doesn't remove them directly, but would have to be bleached out if you can get all the finish off.  On carved pieces that is quite challenging. 

   I certainly don't have the superhuman neatness or patience required to strip the old finish, either with stripper or alcohol without destroying the upholstery, which as Dan says isn't finished (tacks shouldn't show).  I also don't see how joints can be reglued without removing the upholstery first.  Restoring with upholstery in place would, if even possible, add hours and hours to the job. 

   Who did the reupholstery?  Can they remove it without destroying it before you fix the chair structure and finish? 

    

1. 
   tinter | Mar 24, 2009 11:14pm | #8

   Thanks for responding Steve. I removed the decorative trim to try and save it from the finishing process. The upholstery was done before my aunt purchased it. I tried rubbing with denatured alcohol and laquer thinner with little to no result. I'm afraid I'm going to have to disassemble the thing to do an adequate job. (sigh) Thanks again, Chris

3. 
   Joe Sullivan | Mar 24, 2009 04:46pm | #3

   I agree fully with the other guys. It would be nearly impossible to do the stripping and refinishing without some kind of spill or run. However, the fabric is likely just stapled on with some fresh padding beneath. Your best bet is to remove it, do the repairs and refinishing, and then you or the reupholster just put it back on. After all, the hard part -- cutting and fitting -- is done.

   Joe

4. 
   joinerswork | Mar 24, 2009 05:11pm | #4

   tinter,

   As the others have said, it is well-nigh impossible to strip and refinish without getting stripper, stain, and/or finish dripped, oozed or splashed on the upholstery.  Then there is the problem of attempting a repair.  You will need to, at the least, pull the tacks (at least the gimp is not in place) and peel the fabric and padding back away from the show wood.  Then cover it with plastic.  This might get you access to the loose joints in the back and arms, and give you enough slack to pry the joints open enough to get some glue in them.

   You may be able to avoid removing the webbing underneath the seat by foregoing pulling loose joints apart--by drilling small (1/16") holes near the joints (probably dowels, drill to intersect their ends) and injecting  glue ( the old is probably hide glue)  while waggling the loose joints til you see glue coming out where the pieces meet.  If there are corner blocks at the corners of the seat and they are loose or missing, you'll want to remove the webbing at those corners, and reset the blocks.  Good luck with the webbing, if some of it has already ripped, it is rotten, and the disturbance of pulling tacks from it will probably weaken it or cause it to disintegrate where it is folded under. It will be hard to stretch it and retack it without it tearing, and if it isn't re- stretched tightly, the seat will sag. It may be possible to re-web it, with new webbing right over top of the old.  Sort of like putting new shingles over the old on a roof.  Not the best way to go, but better than nothing.

   All this work might not be worth the effort for a thrift shop find.  Are you certain it is really mahogany?  If it is, it might be worth the trouble, but many pieces of this style were made in poplar and heavily stained to resemble mahogany, back in the 40's and 50's.

   Ray 

1. 
   tinter | Mar 24, 2009 11:35pm | #9

   Hi Ray, I'm now resigned to having to disassemble this upholstery to do an adequate repair job. I had already removed the decorative nails and gimp to save them from getting stained. Unfortunately the webbing has ripped and, thanks for the advice, I will not try to restrech the old stuff. I'm certainly no expert in wood identification, but it looks like mahogany to me in areas where it has been damaged. Take a look at the images I'll attach and see if you can tell from those if it is. Business has been so bad, I would like to tackle this just to have something to do, and test my skill level. So even if it is junk, my aunt will be happy and I'll be busy!

   
1. 
   joinerswork | Mar 25, 2009 01:06am | #12

   tint,

   Beats me.  The one labelled "chip", looks as if part might be mahogany (red) and part poplar (yellow) The toe of the leg that's been sanded looks like a pale mahogany, but it's hard for me to tell from a photo.

   Good luck,

   Ray

5. 
   Gretchen | Mar 24, 2009 07:27pm | #5

   I agree with all the others that a full scale refinishing is just not going to be possible as it is. 
   You might give a try to "rejuvenating" the finish with Howard's Restor-a-Finish, in a dark shade.  You wipe it on and wipe it off.   If that quick fix doesn't do it, the upholstery has to come off--and I doubt seriously that it will be able to be put back on adequately.

   The front apron of that sofa looks like cracked veneer to me--is it?  If so, there is even more work to be done.

   Gretchen

   
   

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   Edited 3/24/2009 12:29 pm ET by Gretchen

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Mar 24, 2009 09:18pm | #6

   Gretchen's idea is good. Another thing to consider is just matching the stain and rubbing some on to cover the wear -- and then going over it carefully with shellac. I've done that with kitchen cabinets, Works pretty well. After week or so of drying time, wax the wood and rub it a bit.J

1. 
   tinter | Mar 24, 2009 11:45pm | #11

   Thanks Joe that might just do the trick,  Chris

2. 
   tinter | Mar 24, 2009 11:43pm | #10

   Hi Gretchen, thanks for the reply. I've attached another image of that apron in a response to Ray Pine, it is solid wood and not cracked thank goodness! That sounds like an excellent suggestion about the formbys. Unfortunately, I think I'm going to have to take it apart to fix the joints, so it may be a moot point now. I will keep it in mind as I go along though. I may be able to make enough slack in the upholstery to reglue the joints without taking it completely off, then the formbys may be just the ticket.   Chris

1. 
   Gretchen | Mar 25, 2009 04:46am | #13

   NOT FORMBY'S    NOT FORMBY'S   It is Howard's Restor-a-finish and not the snake oil that Formby sells.  Just to be clear.

   You might sell your "whoever relative" on a shabby chic thing --IF the HOWARD"S doesn't work--and paint it .  Otherwise, she is going to "eat" the upholstery.Gretchen

1. 
   tinter | Mar 26, 2009 01:19am | #15

   Whoops, dont know where I got formbys from. Thanks Gtetchen, Chris

6. 
   integrity_woodworks | Mar 25, 2009 05:47am | #14

   tinter , I don,nt want to get anyones hair on end ,but Howards is a great product if followed by finish.  your peice is to ,MUCH to far gone. I was a refinisher for over 10 years meaning I have refinished and or restored thosands /many thosands of peices

   Howards is a great polish and cleaner/this finish is what we call Dead,and was no where near that dark when new .that is what shalac (ALL shalac). looks like in40 or so years.

   Bring it over and we will have it ready for finish with out taking the material off in about 6 hours, bring beer lol

   Dan thewoodbug

1. 
   tinter | Mar 26, 2009 01:23am | #16

   On my way!  Wait a minute...whats the weather like there right now! (74 degrees here).  uh...see you in a few months.  Chris  the warmbug

1. 
   integrity_woodworks | Mar 26, 2009 07:09pm | #17

   warmbug thats a goodone ,about 9 years ago I helped a fello woody freind restore a 1947 ford woody wagon for some custom hot rod guys in the shop across from mine and they taged us the woodbugs,it stuck.  as for the weather its about 9 degrees here which is perfect for paint /finish stripping,and I hate the heat it burns me out,but most people I know would rather spend the winter with you warmbugs.

   good luck with your project I'm sure you will figure it out.

   Dan the woodbug