I finished my cedar chest, after sanding down to 280 grit, with polyurethane cut 50/50 with turpentine. I wiped the poly on. The chest looked great. I buffed the finish after allowing it to set for 3 days with 0000 steal wool. I wiped clean of dust and put a coat of Trewax on following the directions to let it dry for 5 minutes. I tried to buff with an automotive buffer with a soft woool bonnet and the stuff just wouldn’t buff down. after several minutes of buffing I could still see the swirl marks where I wiped the wax on. I had to take a soft cotton cloth with a lot of elbow grease to get it smooth and still it didn’t have the glossy depth I was looking for. I put 6 coat of urethane on with buffing between coats. The chest looked better before I waxed it. Should I have left it alone after coating with poly? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks RickW.
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Replies
I had a similar sounding problem with Briwax on fresh Enduropoly. Came to find out Briwax has toulene in it and it softened the poly. An absolute disaster if there ever was one. It took months to harden enough that a thumbnail wouldn't leave a mark or a warm cup of coffee wouldn't stick to it. When other projects permit, I'll sand it down and shoot it again.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
It does sound like something in the wax reacted with your finish. I have always used Johnson's paste wax. Put it on, buff it up. No problem, ever with any finish.
Rich
I think John & Rich identified the problem. With slow curing finishes like poly, varnish, water-base, and conversion, it's best to wait at least a month before waxing - longer is better. When you do wax, watch out for toluene if you use water-base. FYI - I read somewhere that Briwax came out with a toluene free wax because of this problem.
EDIT - Here's a couple articles on wax -> http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/MagWaxArticle.html, http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/pastewax.htm
Paul
F'burg, VA
Edited 7/8/2002 8:04:15 PM ET by Paul
FYI - http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/briwaxx.htm
"Briwax 2000 - a low odor blend.
Briwax responds to user concerns!
Steve - in Northern California
So it was OK to screw-up new finishes and waste in my case 40 hours on a table top, but now they're going to reformulate for regulatory compliance. If they had just labeled the can properly I wouldn't have all this heartburn! You'd think a finishing product company would know the difference between poly and lacquer.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
John, it did seem kind of odd for them to be promoting it as an environmental decision. Its probably marketing that made that decision. They may be going on the theory that it would be better to market it positively rather than as a reaction to a product problem. I'm not sure what good that does since continuing to sell both products is contradicting the environmental statement.Steve - in Northern California
Ditto on the duality comment. Could it be the forebearer of a 49 state car wax to go with the 49 state cars and a California car carwax?
I saw our "I always just had my hair done" governor on the tube last night saying that it's time for the government to 'take responsibility' for greenhouse gasses (CO2) and that "good science" will ensure we will still get to drive any kind of car we want. I just wonder if we'll be able to afford it. Everytime the government 'takes responsibility' for something it costs us money. Does 'good science' come from the same place as 'good traffic engineering'? If so how come the State continues to ignore every independant study that shows car pool lanes don't work? Do the math - 10% of the cars using 20-25% of the lanes. When you consider the impact of congestion on polution and quality of life I can hardly wait for the next thing they'll come up with that's good for us. At least it's good to know the spin doctors will always be around to smooth out the wrinkles after the fact.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
I called briwax for advice when i couldn't get a satisfactory finish over 6 coats of Waterlux. They told me I had put it on too heavy and suggested I apply another very light coat with steel wool (0000). It worked ! Apparently, briwax removes all previous coats and only needs a very light coat.
Hi Rick,
I've been using Trewax for years (20 maybe). I've been using wiping varnishes for that long also. I wax the next day after my finial coat of varnish, no problem. I've learned to......... not let the wax completely dry on the product. There is a certain feel, that I can not transfere into words that I "feel for" prior to buffing. I think.......... when you can no longer smear the wax on the surface but it's not completely dry yet, that's the point I remove the wax. But, if the wax has dried, the solvents in another coat of wax will dissolve the old wax.
That's the way I do things, hope this helps..........Dale
Edited 7/8/2002 6:58:05 PM ET by Dale
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