Replies

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 12, 2003 06:48pm | #1

   Anyway you can get a small block plane in there and shave off a little wood at the appropriate place?

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

2. 
   AlanTurner | Jan 14, 2003 12:43am | #2

   I agree with the suggestion of Planewood.  But, you might try a rabbit block plane, since with this tool you can cut flush to the sides.  Only the front of the drawer divider/rail will show, so you can trim quite a bit behind the front to get the divider loose enough for smooth drawer operation.  The rabbit block plane is my very favorite tool, I think, especially for fitting/fixing.

3. 
   wop | Jan 14, 2003 02:00am | #3

        Don't try wetting it and pushing it back in place with wood if it doesn't want to be there it won't stay there.Take the offered advice and trim it as is. If it is stabilized in that position trim it and leave it there and you won't have any more problems

                                               Philip

1. 
   knothead | Jan 14, 2003 02:40pm | #4

   Thanks guys for the suggestions. My only problem with doing the plane work is the

   gap on the top of the rail, it's 18 of an inch in the center of the rail--total lenght of the rail is 31 inches-- would facing the rail after i plane with a thin strip be a fix?

1. 
   johnhardy | Jan 14, 2003 09:49pm | #5

   This may be totally off base, but my suggestion would be to laminate a 1/8th inch thick piece (as wide as the rail) to the top of the rail where the gap is, and have the laminated piece be about 2 inches shorter than the length of the rail. After the glue dries, run a router down the rail so that the end result is a perfectly flat rail. You'll have glued in a logical piece that is 1/8th inch thick in the middle, thinning out to nothing an inch from each end.

   You'd have to do the router trick on the bottom of the rail as well, since it must dip down an 1/8th of an inch. Just rout off the dipping portion so that the bottom is straight as well.

   Since the new piece isn't very thick, I'm not sure you'd see the glue line. If so, pick a piece where the grain matches and it shouldn't be obvious.

   If the experts think this is stupid, ignore it. I'm not a furniture expert by any means.

   John

   Edited 1/14/2003 2:11:46 PM ET by johnhardy

1. 
   knothead | Jan 15, 2003 04:33am | #6

   By golly, Watson, I think you've got it. John, thanks for brain storm. I've looked it over, and I think I can make it work. I have a long enough flush trim bit, and I  can

   put a temp. straight piece on the back side of the rail for the bearing to ride on.

   that's the weekends challenge, i'll post to let you know how it worked.

1. 
   johnhardy | Jan 15, 2003 05:30am | #7

   Let us know how this works. I sure hope it does, or else I'll feel responsible for screwing it up even more ... :)

   John