Help tensioning delta 16″ scroll saw
Howdy,
I’m not familiar with scroll saw work, but i bought this saw at a used tool store. It still had the cosmoline on the table, so i thought it should be pretty good to go. What i don’t understand is how to get the tension up high enough. Anyone out there have this type of quick release system that delta uses? I’ve bought nice blades and they just push the blade back against the throat plate without cutting. Like the thing has its blade in backwards. I’ve taken everything apart and the machine is operating properly, the blade is going up and down. I’ve inspected the clamp mechanism which seems fine, and the actually cam actuated tension part is somewhat crazy. They have a bolt that you increase the tension by screwing down. It is a treaded bolt that pushes against the mechanism that goes to the blade clamp. I’ve threaded the bolt all the way down and the lever is very difficult to engage and often the blade pops out, but still when the blade does hold the tension is quite weak and the thing doesn’t cut 1/4″ cherry, let alone the 1 1/2″-2″ max hardwood. I didn’t get a manual and can’t find one on Deltas website. man from the way their website works they aren’t going to be around for long, but thats a side note. Any help out there? This machine is the $200 one they sell at all the box stores. Whatcha think? Blade is in right, 9 tpi so its aggressive, still low tension. I don’t like the way the tensioner works. Its like its missing a part between the tensioner bolt and the cam. Help please,
Kelvin
Replies
Model number?
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It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
Hi Kevin,
I'm not familiar with your model.
Are you getting any tension now? Scroll saw blades normally deflect under tension. There needs to be room behind the blade for this. Is your throat plate in backwards?
The owners manual should help out. If you don't have one you can probably down load it from servicenet.com.
Paul
ps There are forums that are just for scrollers that might be of interest. I remember forestgirl having some info.
Kelvin, I have one-model-down from your Delta (I think from reading your description and price). The tension adjustment and blade clamps are identical. If the lever is super-hard to push down and the blade (well-secured) is popping out, you're putting tooooooooo much tension on the blade. If the tension is too low, that lever is extremely easy to push over. There's a sweet-spot level of resistance that you'll find eventually.
You say you bought "nice blades" -- I can just about guarantee you that if you bought them from the store, they're inferior quality. Sad but true. The only scroll saw blade I've found worth using is the Flying Dutchman from Mike's Workshop. I do believe there is one other blade "out there" that's close, but can't remember what it is and have not tried it, as I've been so completely blown away by the FD blades.
Scroll saw blades are not like band saw blades. They flex in both directions, and they require complete control by the operator to work. On a smaller machine like the Delta, you also need to control your feed speed to keep it within the "comfort level" of the saw. Make sure your variable speed is set high for your first, trial, straight cuts.
I'm on my way out right now, but this afternoon I can look at my parts diagram and let you know what parts should be there. I'm sure there's a diagram on the web, but I know their web site is a PITA.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 1/25/2008 12:49 pm by forestgirl
Thanks forestgirl. I'm glad you have the same saw. The mechanism is very hard to push and tighten, but even then the blade flexs before it will enter the wood. If i push as hard as i can and have the bolt all the way down, the blade still bends till it touches the throat plate. It will barely eat into a 1/4 cherry board with my 9 tpi "thick wood blade" from Sears. I did order some olson 7 tpi blades as i want to scroll heavy wood, but should it deflect this easy? Its not popping out of the clamp after i tightened that down. I just cant get any tension on the blade, i think there is a part missing and you are right, i can't get the diagram up from delta. On your saw, the part where you screw down the tension with the black 3 wing nut with the delta logo on it, does it contact the cross bar to provide tension or is there something in between. Either something broke out, or this is the worst design ever. As the adjuster is all the way in and still the blade bends under load, i think i'm missing something there, or you are right crappy blades, but i can't believe they can be this crappy. They won't cut at all.
Thanks
kelvin
OK, are you installing the blades with the teeth pointing Up or Down ? They want to be pointing down.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Hi, Kelvin, sorry it's so late -- I just got home! I think I can find a parts diagram online for you, but it may take awhile. In the meantime, here's the order that parts go in from the 3-prong knob down:
Screw with knob
Spring
arm of the scroll saw
Grommet
Blade support
The diagram is so faint, I don't know if I can even scan it in and post it. Below those 5 things is the blade clamp with the little lever that serves as a quick release.
Whoever asked about what direction the teeth are pointing in (up or down) was wise to bring it up -- you wouldn't be the first, nor the last, to put a scroll saw blade on upsidedown! What concerns me, though, is the around of front-to-back flexion you're getting. It does sound as though something is amiss. What confuses me though, is your sentence: "I've threaded the bolt all the way down and the lever is very difficult to engage and often the blade pops out...." Generally, the lever is difficult to engage only when the tension is too high; this would also account for the blade popping out (unless you didn't have it well clamped in the first place). But then in the next post to me you're describing "If i push as hard as i can and have the bolt all the way down, the blade still bends till it touches the throat plate. " That's not good.
Check and see if those 5 parts are there, get onto Mike's website and order some #5 blades, or a combo try-out pack or something, and I'll see if I can find a parts diagram for you. I don't see any profile info for you (geographic location), if you want a couple of FD blades to just try out, drop me an email and I tuck a couple in the mail.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
OK, back again. I'm going to give you three links. I don't know if you need to be logged in to see any or all of them (registered with the Servicenet web site). The place is a pain until you figure it out. Kinda like my husband (Eeek! Did I say that?!)
Before the links, we still don't know what saw you have for sure. Does it look like this:View Image
THat is the SS350, I own an SS250. If neither is your saw, then the following is probably useless:
Here is the link to the main page for the SS350. http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?pid=42579&tid=9925
The page with the parts in question (this is a PDF file):http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/DocumentView.aspx?productid=42579&typeId=9925&documentId=29471
The other parts page:http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/DocumentView.aspx?productid=42579&typeId=9925&documentId=29470
The instruction manual:http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Delta/A15112.pdf
If the web site won't let you see the parts pages, email me and I'll mail you an attached copy.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Just remembered something else about that quick lock system you should know. NEVER force the little locking lever on the left side, If you bend it, that will through the cam lock out of a usable position and you will have to rebend that arm so the cam can roll over its top dead center to lock in. That position is controlled by the little serrated knob on the right. Too tight and you can't get over the cam and you will bend the arm, too loose and you won't lock up the blade. This is a VERY sensitive adjustment.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Howdy all,
Thanks forest girl for info, my saw is different than the one in your diagrams and the mechanism is different from what i can tell. It must be an older version. its like the last poster said, it shouldn't be hard to engage the tension mechanism. I'll have to look and see b/c i'm using as much force as i can muster on that little lever and the tension is still squat, so maybe the cam is bent. I'll have to see. I'll take a picture of what i'm talking about and see if anyone notices a missing part,
Thanks for all the help, appreciated!
Kelvin
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