Good evening,
I saw a diagram for a wall mounted shelf for tools. The size was approximately height 30″ X length 60″ X 7 1/2″ depth. There were two vertical dividers which divide the storage area in three equal parts and to allow for shelves to mounted at different heigths in each storage area.
I would like to put sliding dovetails on the exterior to hold the box together and on the vertical pieces for show. The question is how much glue should I use, if any at all? Read in one place, glue the entire tail section only and slide into place. Another source said glue either the first third or the last third of the joint ( assuming both parts since the topic was not raised) depending on which way you desire the wood to move during the different climate changes through out the year.
Any thoughts or past experience on sliding dovetail joints? Thank you
Terre
Replies
Terre,
I would recommend through or half blind dovetails for the box itself.
I glue both surfaces of sliding dovetails when the grain of both pieces runs the same way. (Spot gluing is only necessary when using a sliding dovetail in a cross grain situation, as in a batten on a table top.) The fit of the joint is important-don't forget it is a SLIDING dovetail- too tight and the joint may sieze up when it's halfway together. The trick is to keep it moving so the glue acts as a lubricant, if you let it set it'll want to grab. In your case's partitions, drive them in by striking each end alternately, with a hammer and block.
On old work, it's not unusual to see the socket, and its mating tail, tapered in width, so they are a sloppy fit til the last inch or so. I've seen this most often on shelves that are a foot or more in width, and battens on plank doors.
Regards,
Ray
Sir,
Thank you for two really great insights. Using the glue as a lubricant and alternating pressure on installing the sliding dovetai.
Terre
Sliding dovetail tutorial at the DeWalt link.
Sir,
Thank you for the DeWalt link.
Terre
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