I need some opinions on the best sequence to use in finishing frame and panel cabinet doors and (large )drawer faces. I’m using cope & stick. I’m using one of Freud’s sets. To re-inforce (larger, heavier) cabinet doors, I have used Miller Dowels. (I’ve found the cope and stick method to hold up well, so far.
Which works best of the following ways that I have listed, and what have I not tried that might be more successful. Following are the methods I have tried, all of them after proper sanding.
1. Completely finish the panel (stain, seal, and several coats of finish). Stain the stiles & rails, assemble the frame and panel and put the finish coat on the entire frame and panel.
1a. The problem that I had is getting stain into the grooves of the rail ends and the area where they attach to the stile, giving me concern about gluing the stiles and rails. (I was using masking tape — but it won’t completely stop the oil stain.)
1b. The other problem is getting stain on the top finish of the panel.
2. Put the entire frame and panel together, stain it, then finish it.
2a. The problem I have encountered is that when I stain the assembled piece, stain gets into crevices and getting it out is not “next to impossible”, it’s impossible. Then, I have to set it aside for a month to dry — periodically sopping up the stain that seeps out. (and still have some globs of threating stain in the grooves/frame ends). Finally, finishing with top coat, the wood movement results in
2a1. A tiny piece of the frame edge will show without stain when the wood begins to move.
2a2. The sealing/topcoats begin to crack and create a ridge where the panels fit into the stiles and rails.
3. I’m on the third–but, thought I might get some feedback before I go too far. This one, I’m staining the panel prior to assembly, assembling the entire frame and panel, staining the remaining rails and stiles, then applying the topcoats.
3a> The problem I am anticipating is the wood movement will still result in cracks and compression of the finish where the panel edges meet the stiles and rails.
Tell me which is the BEST way (in your opinion) of the three. Or, tell me a totally different way to do it.
thanks.
Replies
Hi Goose ,
# 2 , is how I have done thousands of um .
It sounds to me you are having trouble with your stains.
What type and brand stain are you using ? some work so much easier with little or no bleed back in Oak . Is your wood White or Red Oak ? The two will produce different colors with the same stain , so what works on one will not look the same on the other .What is the wood you are trying to match ?
dusty
Goose, I have to agree with Dusty on this. I find that finishing the panels pre-assembly is just too much hassle. The only thing I would add to Dusty's comments are that when staining the panel I push it on purpose all the way to the left and also to the right, in order to get stain on as much as possible of what is temporarily "hidden" in the grooves. Find a stain that doesn't have those bleed-back problems.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
Thanks to both of you. I think I'm getting the message and will try to follow your advice.
Goose ,
With the right kind of stain , what I do is use a very wet stain rag around the panel edges and force the color into the grooves on purpose .
Usually the stain will penetrate past the edges enough to color the panel , but will not bleed back .Danish oils are famous for bleed back .
Sounds like you are using solid wood panels , the thin edge not being stained imo is insignificant in regards to panel movement .
Don't worry be happy !
dusty
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