I’m building a china cabinet and I’m using blum drawer slides the ones with the little wheel’s. My drawers are to high so I can not tilt the drawer into the slides I think I’m about 1/8th to big.
Can I put the drawers through a drum sander?
I think this would work but the drawers have been finished with lacquer and I would worry about snipe. If this would be the best way I just spray the top edge again.
Can I cut a rabbit on the bottom of the drawer to put the slide in to shorten the distance from the top of the drawer and the wheel on the slide?
I would appreciate any and all feedback.
Thank You
Sean
Replies
If you're an 1/8th too tall(drawers) , then hand plane the top or bottom to fit. The bottom would easier since you won't need to refinish.
Great idea but I have not learned how to plane yet. I dont even own one. I know for me to get to the next level of woodworking I need to learn.
Thank You for the advise.
I've run into this problem when I didn't pay attention to the installation instructions for the drawer glides - they usually tell you the maximum drawer height (or minimum clearance) necessary to allow the drawers to be tipped and removed/installed.
Remove the drawer fronts and the glide hardware on the drawer then set up your table saw to remove 3/16" or so and make four passes with the drawer bottom against the rip fence. Set your blade height as low as you can and work carefully. Sand out the saw marks and it should work.
Before you actually cut the drawers, make your setup, lower the blade, and make a couple of practice passes to be sure you're comfortable and in control.
Good luck (and read the instructions next time - lol)
P. S. That's a beautful piece you're making.
Edited 10/12/2004 9:34 am ET by Dave
You just have to buy the right size. You're not in high school anymore and you're just kidding yourself if you think you can still fit into a 32-inch waist. In fact, get boxers, that way they won't ride up the way the "whitey-tighties" do -
Oh, wait - you mean drawers in a china cabinet....
Sorry, couldn't resist. It is a nice looking cabinet.
Chad-
I went past a 32" waist around my sophomore year. As a both-ways lineman on the football team, I was a bit larger than most of my classmates - lol. Today (over 40 yrs after graduation), I'm still at a 38".
As to boxers v.s. briefs, I'm definitely a briefs kinda guy. I haven't worn boxers since Navy boot camp (they made us wear them) and I threw those away the day I left basic training.
Dave, your advise is great and I think this is the way I will fix the problem. I have done that cut like that on my tablesaw when I was cutting the top for a Humidor and it was easy. A little sanding, some finishing and I'm back in business.
Thank You,
Sean
trebark ,
There are several ways to take care of this . As the EURO slide on the drawer enters the cabinet member they generally drop down and into the slide. Often just relieving the very back top edge or even cutting an angle on the drawer back will provide enough clearance for the drawer box to slide in . Cutting the drawer box down on the TS as mentioned in another post would also provide clearance. Lastly you may be able to replace the rails in between the drawers or cut them down and re position the slides.
" How good you are is how good you fix your mistakes"
good luck dusty
"How good you are is how good you fix your mistakes"
Mistakes? I thought those were 'training exercises'. Or is it 'artistic expression'?
:-')Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
Bill-
I well and truely annoyed SWMBO several years ago when I told her that 50%-75% of "craftsmanship" involved finding ways to hide mistakes - lol
Dave,
Yes, we must be cautious around the DW.
On a different angle of this same tangent (???), the TV woodworking guys always seem to do it right, although all of us know they make the same mistakes we do. One thing I really appreciate about David Marks (Wood Works on DIY) is that he had an episode showing or explaining how to fix common mistakes we make.
Regards,Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
Bill-
That's something I would love to see. I generally enjoy New Yankee Workshop but wish I had the time (and budget) to make a prototype of every project.........it would be wonderful to make the mistakes off the clock - lol
Are the fronts attached to the drawer???. If not, a quick buz around the edge on the table saw will do. How about a full extension slide the mounts to the side of the cabinet and the side of the drawer. They can be found for less than $10 per slide. They also have the same side clearence as a Blum slide
I just bought a box of Accuride 3832 full extension slide for $8.86 each and a box of 230m Blum slide(3/4 extension) for $2.65 each
Would you consider using a ball bearing glide instead ( ie accuride )? The side clearance is the same, you can get full extension glides, and you won't have to tilt the drawer to get it in.
The accuride are great products but I find them to be more challanging to install and they hide more of my dovetail's which I like to show off.
Thanks for the advise.
Sean
Trebark,
If you want an excellent glide that won't hide anything on the side, check out the Blum Tandem undermount.
I have seen those but they are very expensive. I did offer those to my customer but they passed. Are they hard to install?
Thanks
Sean
You just need to have 1/2" reveal at the bottom of the drawer for the glide to fit. They are easy to install, but the side dimensions are different than the other type. You could install cleats on the sides of the casework to make up the difference.
You said they are too expensive? I usually pay ~$25 per pair for the HD 21" full extension slides with the drawer hardware. The lighter duty ones start in the $12 range and go up.
But in certain situations, you have to ask yourself how much is your time worth vs. your savings in material ?
Another thought on your dovetails and ball bearing glides- you could get the next size down with over travel and setback the glide rail on the box 1" so you don't cover up your dovetail. ex. 18" deep box, buy 16" deep glide with 1" OT, gives you 17" travel with 1" setback giving you nearly full extension.
Edited 10/13/2004 3:49 pm ET by craig
Edited 10/13/2004 3:53 pm ET by craig
Ok Craig I will try the undermont style on my next project and I will keep my fingers crossed. I have to learn sometime.
Thanks again
Another option to consider is a ball-bearing glide that mounts to the bottom of the drawer. I've used quite a few of these and they're easier to mount than you might think. Here's a link to view them: http://tinyurl.com/6g4hn
Regards,Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
RE; HELP MY DRAWERS TO FIT
Tre , If you can use a sewing machine, and scissors,just slit the rear of the briefs or boxers and sew in a wedged shaped piece of fabric of the same material.
If you continue to scarf down all those frenchfries and burritos, You might want make extra triangles in increased sizes X,XX, XXX, XXXX and , 'Call Ripley' or, Guinness' World Record
Steinmetz.
If you do extensive plumbing or, under the kitchen cabinet work, you might consider 'Hi- Tops' brand of briefs They have a 'Broad' selection to choose from.
If you're of the 'Hip'generation, try LYCRA (not inexpensive but, very Expansive) ED.
Edited 10/13/2004 3:50 pm ET by steinmetz
Edited 10/13/2004 3:59 pm ET by steinmetz
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Edited 10/13/2004 4:34 pm ET by steinmetz
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Edited 10/14/2004 2:08 pm ET by steinmetz
lol
six edits... that's gotta be a record !
I can change my mind all I want . If Kerry can ,Stein can.
touche~ !
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