In the final machine sanding step for a special-purpose box, I sanded through a corner, exposing the slot for an FF biscuit joint (see attached pics). The box has a face-framed lid. The frame was just *barely* wide enough to accept the biscuit. Or actually, as it turned out, just barely *not* wide enough.
I made two of these boxes, and strangely, the exact same thing happened on the same corner of both boxes. I must have cut the biscuit slot just a tiny fraction closer to the corners of the frame on both — it’s just weird that it’s the same corner.
I see only one possible “save” — which is to cut slots for spline miters in all four corners. This might look a bit weird, as the splines won’t be centered on the lid.
Does anybody have any other suggestions for a fix? Of course, I can always make new face frames (avoiding biscuit joinery!), but I’d like to know if anybody can think of alternatives.
Appreciate any help!
-M.
Replies
How about two splines -- one to cover up the biscuit, and the other for balance?
I think woodworking is great because it is so forgivable -- that is, more often than not, you can find a way to work around your mistakes.
On the other hand, I think it is also important to find that psychological point where it is possible to release yourself from the mistake, and simply redo that part.
In James Krenov's most recent book (on the work of his students), there is a great photo of this guy gazing into a fire pit (which appears to be just outside the shop), whilst the piece he just built is consumed by the fire.
"I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
-- Bertrand Russell
Mark,
I like nikki's idea of using two splines, but here's another alternative- rabbet all four sides of the lid, and fill the rabbet with veneer cut from some of the same stock (to match), or rout a shallow groove around the lid and fill with inlay banding that will cover your glitch. You might want to put matching banding around the body of the box, near the bottom as well.
Regards,
Ray
Hmmm. I like the idea of banding- that might actually be an excellent fix.Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Glaucon,
An old-timer told me once, the difference between a good craftsman and a poor one, wasn't whether he made a mistake, but rather, did he know how to cover it up!
Cheers,
Ray
>the difference between a good craftsman and a poor one, wasn't whether he made a mistake, but rather, did he know how to cover it up<
Well, then I must be a PhD candidate in good craftsmanship (I certainly have made and fixed a lot of mistakes)- seriously, the best WWrs I know (and they are all very good teachers) had the ability to "fix" their students' mistakes. It's part innate and part acquired.Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
The best woodworkers got that way by making every possible mistake along the way. Once you've made a bunch of boo boo's and fixed them, you figure out how to avoid them the next time. You can't call yourself a woodworker if you haven't screwed up a fair number of projects.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
An old-timer told me once, the difference between a good craftsman and a poor one..
My grandpa told me to get into Banking!
Jesse James' dad told him the same thing...no wait, he said "get into banks."
Cheers,
Ray
Some great suggestions. I appreciate it greatly, and will let you know how it comes out!-M.
Repair completed. I elected to use banding to cover up the problem. Thanks to everybody for the ideas!-M.
Mark,
Looks like you planned it that way! ;-))
Cheers,
Ray
A compentent craftsman can hide his/her mistakes. A great craftsman makes the fix look like it was planned all along.
Your band isn't just a fix - it's an enhancement.
See.. It looks even better! Good job...
Mark,
As others have suggested, banding or some sort of inlay would fix the visual discrepancy as well as complement the final product. Cut a shallow dado with your table saw. If you add a piece of paper between the fence and the work piece on a second pass, you will slightly overlap the slot cut by the biscuit jointer and avoid any pin hole gaps in the joint.
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Mark,
How about planing 1 or 2 mm off that edge and then glueing on a new edge ?The thinner the better so it is not revealed along the mitre.
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