Two things:
1. Can I plug a 3hp. Delta saw into a 120w outlet? Or do I need more power?
2. Can you put a coat of less than 1# cut of shellac on a piece and follow up with a mixture of oil, varnish and naptha, in order to preserve a lighter solor?
Thank you
4Runner
Replies
4runner,
1. most 3 or better run on 220/240. You may get a lot of talk back on this one. All Knoters are electricians..some lethal.
2. can but wouldn't. Less than a 1# cut will not seal sufficiently on most woods, or at least not enough as to not prevent bleed thru from final finish. At least go with a full 1 pound of superblonde. I personally would use at least a 2#cut. Either Zinnser or hand mixed superblonde. I did a recent test of both,side by side 2# cuts on some very light butternut and after dry, almost no difference. Maybe a little more radiant on the hand cut but that could be just the radial differences(wood) as the light angle changes.
Check with SteveSchoene.
IMHO
Boiler
Also, you might want to look into water based finishes for the clearest non yellowing finish and forget the shellac.
Thank you!
I'm writing all this down.I appreciate your reply.
4Runner
It's unlikely that you could find a 3 HP, 120V motor. The current (Amps) would be too high at that voltage to be practicle. My 3 HP table saw requires a 30-Amp, 2-Pole circuit breaker which provides 240 volts to the machine. The same motor at 120 volts would require twice the amps, or a 60-Amp, Single Pole circuit breaker. The wire size would need to be #6-AWG. Not at all practical.
No help on the shellac.
Okay WoodyAl
I'll do some more home work.
Thanks again,
4runner
1) No, for the same reason that clothes dryers and kitchen ranges don't run on 120V: The cost of the required wiring is prohibitive.
2) Once you've applied shellac, an oil/varnish mix no longer makes sense. Instead, you can apply a varnish, either diluted for wiping or full-strength. As mentioned in a previous reply, a water-based varnish would probably work about as well.
-Steve
Thank you.
Is there a lot of resanding when you apply a water based finish? That's not one of my most favorite chores.
4Runner
You may want to pre-wet and sand before water based finish then you will rarely have to sand again as the second app. of water via the finish won't (NORMALLY) raise the grain again. My schedule is 180 (unless smoother planed), pre-wet, 220 to remove nibs and then waterbased finish. Let all the finishes dry thoroughly.. Afterwards you can use any number of techniques from a gentle polish with 0000 steel wool to pumice followed by rottenstone via oiled wool pad (or distilled water). Gloss to satin, it's your choice. Maybe if I feel like it, I'll add a waxy finish.Sometimes a beeswax, other times Renaissance Micro Crystalline. Even the finish types themselves can be varied - Some say you will get better clarity by using a gloss first and then finishing with a satin, yet others say to use a satin first to improve the highest gloss....go figure experiment on a similar piece first.
The more relaxed you are and do each step evenly the better you will get.
Don't let finishing get to you, It sounds complex but it's really not that hard and doesn't have to give anyone "THE DESPERATE FEAR OF FINISHING" (drum roll).
People spend weeks lovingly crafting a project and then want to apply the finish in hours. Have some Scotch (neat) and mellow with the finish. One thing times out the other.It's like fishing. No matter what the experts say about trout, they're only fish and we are just a leeeetle bit smarter.
It's only wood.
As Mel says...Have funBoiler
Really good, thanks for the humor. I do like scotch.
4Runner
Good. You are also a lot more experienced than your post would indicate. If I was speaking down, I humbly and abject and profusely and ...you get the point :)Boiler
Keep up the good job. Looking forward to emailing you again.
4Runner
I have yet to meet anyone whose favorite chore is sanding.
The first coat of waterborne finish will raise the grain somewhat, but if you pre-raise the grain as boilerbay suggests, it shouldn't be much, and you'll be able to knock it down easily with some P320 paper. Once the surface has been sealed by that first coat, the subsequent coats won't be a problem.
-Steve
Okay, I can try that. I'm looking for a clearer finish.
Thank you
4Runner
Steve Schafer has given you good advise, nix on the 120 v with the 3 hp. motor. You should be aware that 115v. Unisaw motors were made, and may be available in the used market. I think that there is a 115v Unisaw motor made new as well, not 3 hp. but 1 1/2 or perhaps 2 hp.
He has also given you good advise about maintaining the light color. The lightest result, applied by hand, would be with a waterborne finish. Most are water clear, though some have been tinted a bit to look more like oil based varnish. Shellac alone, such as super blonde, varieties would be very light, but most likely not as "unfinished wood" colored as might be achieved with the waterborne acyrlic. The lightest oil based varnishes are soya based with alkyd resin. Linseed oil based varnishes are darker and yellow more over time, and Phenolic resin varnishes are darker yet.
Edited 4/20/2009 6:21 pm ET by SteveSchoene
Thanks Steve!
It's hard enough to design and execute projects. I didn't know I had to be an electrician also.
I'll keep trying.
4runner
most Delta 3hp motors Shaper/planer /table saw are 220 volt, 15amp
Dan
I appreciate all the interest this has generated. It's good to know there is so much info out there... untapped!
Thank you.
4runner
1.) The National Electric Code, Table 430.248, Full Load Currents in Amperes, Single- Phase Alternating - Current Motors says no.
To comply with the code you would need a 30 A 240 V circuit.
By the way, if you do plug the machine into a 120 V 20 A outlet chances of starting the motor are pretty slim.
Thank you for explaining it so well.
4runner
4runner,
I have a 1.5 hp motor for a unisaw that is okay to run on 115 VAC. If you are interested let me know and I can send it to you for a little more than the shipping cost. Ive since upgraded to a 3hp when I moved into my new shop. The smaller motor does just fine with a sharp blade, granted you can't rip 12/4 maple at a fast clip but it does get the job done.
Tom
Thanks for the offer but I'm holding out for a new saw.
4Runer
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled