Hi,
I’ve been woodworking for a while and I want to put a fence up in my yard and was wondering if anyone out there has ever built their own fence? I was thinking of using cedar but, it is my guess that it is probably more cost-effective to simply buy the fence and install it myself. Just wondering..
Regards,
Buzzsaw
“Don’t ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive.” Gil Bailie
Replies
I have built several fences. Doing it yourself, allows you address details that make the fence special. You can show off your craftsmanship.
My last fence was made out of White Oak since it was less expensive than Cedar. It was time consuming, as I routed all the edges and custom made the post caps. Making 200 pickets, knowing there are 10 or 20 steps that have to be done, was tedious. It is not a weekend project.
The big 'however' is that a fence is just a fence. The general public won't appreciate your effort. The cheapskates will wonder why you made such an effort. I have put up panelized fences with a couple of buddies as weekend projects. Even with these quick projects you can address details that make the fence special.
The key is to build something you will enjoy looking at 20 years from now. Some of the quick and dirty products simply look quick and dirty. Strive for eloquence.
Curtg
If cost is an issue, don't overlook pressure-treated fence lumber. After it dries for a year, a cedar or similar stain looks good.
One approach is to use pipes set in concrete for the posts, and then "skin" them in wood. That pretty much avoids the rotting fence post problem. With a little forethought, and consistency in post placement, individual wooden sections can then be made in modules, bolted to the steel posts. Stainless steel hardware is preferred.
The wooden parts of a fine woodworking fence, of course, should be made of teak. ;-)
Buzzsaw and Ralph -
Whenever I have the misfortune of replacing someone's fence here in Central Texas, I replace the rotted woods posts (generally cedar) just as you. I set metal posts in concrete and "case" or "skin" them with cedar boards. If it's a privacy fence, I use treated lumber for the rails and hang whatever vertical boards the owner can afford, ideally Western red cedar. I've found that once a cedar fence has weathered for several years, if it's kept stained or painted annually thereafter, the life span is greatly extended. Also, high quality, galvanized rail brackets and lag screws are available from fencing suppliers around here, in preference to higher cost stainless steel hardware. Besides maintenance, I think the key to building a long-lived wooden fence lies in investing in the highest quality, cedar fence boards affordable and available - definitely not from Lowe's or Home Depot. If an owner is willing, I also like to cap the top of the fence with 2x's for a much dressier look and which hides the ubiquituous dog ears, prevents warping at the top and allows the bottom rail to be hung much closer to the bottom end of the fence boards (in essence a three rail fence - plus the decorative effect the cap board gives).
Buzz,
Here is a picture of a garden fence in the village of Rooking, near Patterdale in the English Lake District. The maker has carved the fence panel and posts with some kind of machine, I suspect. In all events, I thought the effect was quite pleasing......
View Image
Lataxe, spotter of intersting wood thangs.
Hi All,
Thanks for the posts. Other than this past post, which shows a rather interesting looking fence, could any of you please post some pictures?
Thank you everyone!Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Sir that is one cool fence! I love it!
Installed many fences. Not MADE many.
I would say it all depends if you have the equipment and time and whatever..
How big/long is this fence. How will you 'fix' the posts.
Just me, but I'd get a Pro to at least set the posts (spacing/depth for you soil and climate) for your new fence! Makes a BIG difference over time if you get a 'real pro'... A REAL difference...
Thanks for your reply. I tend to think that having a "pro" install the fence makes sense. Building it probably won't even save me money...Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Depending on your location, setting posts in concrete may not be a great idea. Frost heave may do bad things to your fence. Hard-packed gravel might be better.
Buzzsaw,
I have built a few in my time and most were of cedar with either cedar or PT post set in concrete.
That was in Idaho and Georgia. Here on the Oregon coast we have builders come from the valley and put standard stuff up and it lasts one a few years and then gone.
Coast builders use one of two methods. The first is the steel pole and cement with sheathing. Salt water rusting kills these in about 10 years.
The second is 4X6 PT in concrete over power packed gravel sunk to 4 feet on the windward side with 4X8 PT on the corners. These will hold against our winter storm winds (70-130 mph in 12/07). They will last about 15 years. The boarding is usually "good neighbor " cedar alternating so as to lessen the wind resistance. Stainless nails which raises to cost a bunch.
As to cost - I would have the posts/anchors done by pro and then the rest is a no brainer and pretty easy if you can handle a level and a laser.
Cheap Borg vinyl with open weave seems to becoming popular here with the daytrippers.
At least you see it in all the trees after a storm. Kind of like high school TP in the trees. Works at Christmas -gives the neighborhoods that decorated festive look.
Boiler
Thanks for the post BoilerBay...Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Hi Buzzsaw,
I've built several fences in different places I've lived and once I started having a fence company install the posts it went much much faster and happier. We use cedar up here, I like 4" vs the more common 6", I think it stays flatter and I just like the look, plus you can bend it to adjust a sideways bow easier.
I've for some reason taken kind of an interest in the process and a lot of fence work goes unappreciated no matter how much extra goes in to it. Perhaps the easiest but still hands on approach is to have a contracter build you a fence and you put in a really nice gate or two.
Larry Rasmussen,
Seattle
Hello
I've made a few fences over the years.
And I cant realy add a lot to what has already been said,except,
For the post I like to do things more the old fashion way. (more or less) I use pressure treated posts (4x4) but before I set the posts I seal the ends and sides with tar. (only the parts that will be at or below ground level.) The tar keep the wood from picking up any water and the wood stays solid for many years, no matter what method I use to set the post, concrete, or just packed earth the wood post will last many years longer due to the extra steps taken.
I hope this helps, good luck on your next fence.
Have a Great day.C.A.G.
Thanks. That is a good tip to remember about using the tar on the PT posts.Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Thanks Larry. You guys have gotten a lot of snow this winter. We have a division in Redmond, WA and they have had to shut down the plant on a few occasions. I live in NH and we have had a good deal of snow as well. I've noticed a number of people saying to use metal posts sunk in concrete and then attach the wood to it. I have a rather short fence along the bottom of my driveway where that same thing was done. They put holes in the concrete that was already there, put the metal posts in, then added more cement to hold the metal posts. Then a wooden fence was put up and attached to the metal posts with fasteners. Interesting concept.
I assume that when you said you have the contractor install the posts, you are talking about wooden posts correct?Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Yep the good old dig and pour with a treated post. I can't quite picture how the metal ones work but now that I know about them I'll probably notice them going in somewhere.
Larry
In 2000 I enclosed three sides of my property with cedar fencing. That's about 275 feet of fence. I did the project myself. It was six months of hard but rewarding work. The design of the fence was pretty much dictated by the zoning rules of the city I live in. I fenced the rear of my property first followed by the two sides.
On the back of my property I was allowed to go up seven feet so I bought 12 foot, 4 x 4 cedar posts. Four feet of the post is underground set in concrete. I used the tubing forms builders use to set deck foundations in to hold the posts and concrete. This makes for a neater installation and you use less concrete that just digging a hole. In 2008 I had to replace I had to replace two of the posts due to rot. I should have had the building forms containing the concrete come up a little higher above ground to help prevent water from pooling directly against the posts. On the posts I replaced last year I made sure the forms extended a few inches above grade before I set the posts.
On the sides of my property I did something completely different. In this location I was replacing an existing chain link fence. I removed the chain link fabric but kept the metal posts. This was the smartest move I made. As another poster pointed out, you can box in the metal posts so it looks just like a solid post . I think there are three advantages to using the metal posts:
1. It's less expensive than buying wood posts.
2. The metal posts will never rot.
3. The finished fence is stronger.
I designed the box around the metal post so the lag bolts holding the box together are not visible. It really worked out well. I used 5/4 cedar planks for the box. That's the same material I used for the pickets on my fences. When boxing a metal post this way the finished box ends up being 6 x 6. If I had figured out (or thought of) this boxing method before I made the rear fence I definitely would have used the metal post method for the rear fence. In my mind that's the only way to go when building a wooden fence.
I'm going to try and attach some photos. This is my first time posting in this forum so I hope I'm doing it right. Also, please excuse the condition of my yard. It's February in Michigan and just about everyone's yard looks as bad as mine right now.
Sidefence01 shows the amount of metal post that extends below the fence. This used to be a chain link fence.
Sidefence02 also began it's life as chain link. Here, any hint of a metal post is hidden by plantings. This is at a different height than sidefence02 due to zoning regulations.
rearfence03 was built where no fence existed before. Can you spot the two posts I replaced?
Hope this helps you decide what to do with your fencing project.
--
Randy
Randy,
Thanks so much for your post. I really enjoyed the pics. I really think it would be an interesting project to build a fence on my own. I'm still trying to figure out whether it really makes sense or not. your post was very helpful to me and you do excellent work!Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Here's a fence I built for my sister in law, used cedar and the posts are kiln dried pressure treated and my brother in law stained it with Cabot's stain in black. Lots of challenges but it was worth it.
Woah, my brother recently had a gate built like that and he must've paid a pretty penny. How did you set the posts here? Was it just into the ground with gravel or did you use cement? I would love to build my own fence and just have it be a Summer project. I think it would be enjoyable. Not sure if I will save any money on it though..Thanks for those pics. You are a craftsman...Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
That is a truly elegant and stately fence. I especially like the bottom portion that screens and restricts unwanted entry, juxtaposed with the upper portion that provides stature and relief from the unfriendly and claustrophic feel of a 6' privacy fence. That fence deserves many years of futureforth, proper caretaking. Really, really nice entry and a pleasing overall result.
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