Hardwood edge for veneered round table
I have a 24″ round top, veneered on an MDF substrate, I want to create and fasten a hardwood edging to ‘finish off’ the MDF, then proceed to mount the top on table legs.
What form of jig would work best to match the OD arc of the top to the ID arc of the edging. (I can come up with my own jig, but why should I start from scratch if someone else has already “invented the wheel”?)
Do you think it is possible to create edging with a tolerance that makes the edging ‘dead level’ with the veneer – or should I plan on a design detail shadow line?
Frosty
Replies
Rough-cut the jig with a saber saw, then finish-cut with a router on a trammel arm. You can use the router and trammel arm to cut the outside curve of the edging too.
If you make the edging narrow -- perhaps a quarter of an inch -- you can glue it on slightly proud of the veneer top and scrape or sand it down to flush. If you make the edging wide, this is still possible, but more difficult.
I would have edged it first, flushed it with the top by scraping or belt-sanding then veneered the whole thing. That would hide gaps. However, since it's already veneered, I'd use thin (1/8") edging, glue it on using titebond II and hold it with a million strips of green masking tape (proud of top surface) then flush the top with a random orbit sander.
Thanks to both of you. I had been considering edging about 1 1/2" wide and now will consider the thinner edging - but WHERE do I get "a million strips of green tape"?I attended a veneering class at Marc Adams a couple of years ago. One of the skills was doing an 8-repeat circular layout. (The sequence of grain matching is counterintuitive.) That is why I'm starting with the veneered piece rather than edging first.Frosty
I use 3M extra sticky green masking tape and I get it from Home Depot. It has some stretch to it so it makes a good clamp for some applications. Try it dry first to get the hang of it. Once you do, you might want to 'glue as you go' to minimize the mess. Good luck
Frosty,
I have some round tables I do the very thing you're asking. It takes some jigs to keep tolerances acceptable. These tables are made with about 8 jigs. Each table is made from 21 pieces.
Earl
Earl,
Beautiful tables!!
GeorgeYou don't stop laughing because you grow old. You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard<!----><!----><!---->
<!----><!---->
Thank you, George!!Furniture...the Art of a FurnitureMaker
Earl,You got it! That's exactly what I had in mind.It looks as though you glued the edging directly to the top - flat to flat, so to speak. I thought that it would be necessary to rabbit the table top edge and the edging to get more glue surface. Is that the case?If a rabbit is not necessary, then it becomes easier to achieve a flat transition from table surface to the edge. True?? Thanks for the pics.Frosty
Frosty, That's it, everything is butt jointed. A halflap joint would be ideal, but with a small table not necessary. With a litle more time in design and setup it's not out of reach. EarlFurniture...the Art of a FurnitureMaker
Thanks.By the way, your tables are great. I particularly like the first one.Frosty
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled