Hanging Melamine cabinets to the wall
I have 2 questions; 1 – What would the best method be to hang melamine cabinets to the wall. I have 3 cabinets to hang on one wall, all 3 cabinets fall on just one stud (the studs are spaced 24 inches apart). I was thinking If I nail a 2X4 horizontally the same lenght of of the cabinet runs then I would have solid surface to drill all cabinets side by side. Or is it better to attach the cabinets together and drill them to the studs. And what type of screws is best to use.
The back of the cabinets are solid full back (5’8″ melamine). The doors are made of MDF. The boxes are made of 5/8″ melamine/framless style/ with european hinges. Question # 2- Since MDF is much heavier than melamine, do you believe that melamine is strong enough to hold the doors. Thank you !!
Replies
There are millions of cabinets made from the same materials you used.
If the cabinets are going to be side by side you can screw to a stud and then use toggle type bolts for the non-stud side.
Install the next cabinet by screwing it to the first and to a stud, same again with the last cabinet. Use toggles if needed for the last cabinet. Be careful not to rack the cabinet as you tighten it to the wall. Use shims where needed to make level.
Another option is to mark out where the cabinets will be and remove a strip of drywall. Replace this strip with 1/2" plywood screwed to the studs. Odds are you may still need toggles for the ends where the cabinets hang beyond the studs.
The best method to hang the cabinets would be a french cleat but that is probably not an option. As the cabinet really has to be built to accept the cleat to maintain aesthetics.
As melamine cabinets and cabs of any type tend to be heavy I would mount a ledger (at the right hieght and level) to temporarily to set the cabinets on. The whole unit will be way to heavy to assemble on the ground then lift into place. You have to mount them individually then fasten together.
With each cabinet only falling on one stud, I would drill additional holes through the back for a screw and toggle(but not at the stud location). (I watched a show where they were testing anchors in drywall. IIRC a 1/4 inch toggle bolt supported two hundred pounds.)
I would place the cabinets on the ledger while someone helps hold the cab temporarily, mark the wall through the drill hole for the togle with a narrow pencil, or an awl, take the cab. down drill wall for the toggle. Stick your toggles into the cab. put the cab back into place working the toggles into the holes and while a helper holds the cab up to the wall put a screw into the stud. Then start to tighten the toggles and check for level and plumb. Shim if necessary. You may have to loosen slightly and reshim and fiddle with them to get the fronts to align.
do the same with the next cab. fastening the cabinets to each other after you have shimmed and get the fronts to line up well. then do the third.
I think the cabinets are fine to hold the weight of the doors.
Just my two cents worth.
Webby
Edited 12/23/2008 2:52 pm ET by webby
I've hung more of these cabinets than I can remember. For something that simple, I would attach the cabinets together and hang them as a single unit.
But am I reading right? There is only one stud between all three cabinets? Either I'm misreading or those are some really narrow cabinets.
If there is only one stud, I would open a strip of the wall, saving the piece of drywall, set a 1x4 or strip of 3/4" plywood into the studs, then patch the wall back together. Then screw the cabinets to that strip.
As for type of screw, I would use the gold color all purpose screws (look like drywall screws, except that they're shiny), with washers. The length should be enough to penetrate at least a full inch into the wood, probably 2-1/2" would do.
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Looks like you've gotten some good advice for hanging your cabinets so I'll respond to your second question. I've been making some similar cabinets lately with 3/4" melamine boxes and 3/4" MDF doors. I used euro hinges ( the 35mm type) that I got at Home Depot for $20 for 5 pairs of hinges. The hinges allow for 3 different types of adjustments and are working well with the melamine and MDF. Good luck.
arc ,
You don't say if the cabinets go up to the ceiling or soffit , if they go all the way up to the ceiling you may also be able to screw into the top plate of the wall in several places to make up for the few suds .
Place one on the wall on your marks and place a few screws into the stud , but don't drive them home yet, place and clamp the next box to the first one and screw them together then to the wall and so on .
Make sure you use a finish washer or washer head screws so you don't screw through the back panel .
The screws that hold the hinges on the cabinet are where the brunt of the holding power come from , usually I use 5/8" hinge screws but in 5/8" melamine sides that may or may not work out a 1/2" or shorter screw would offer less support .
dusty
So, as I read your post you have a single stud behind each of the cabinets... assuming that's correct... you will have enough attachment points for the whole unit. I would set them individually. You could use a ledger as webby suggests... I often set base cabinets below them first then use RV leveling stands atop a temporary ply or plank counter (ledger or cut spacer posts are other options) to position the cabinets precisely before screwing them in. Each cabinet attaches to the adjoining one as it is positioned. I would likely try to get screws high AND low where I have only one stud per cabinet as you do.
I also like to get screws into the sidewalls where the cabinets abut them... you may need drywall anchors for that (sometimes I will slit the drywall behind the cab faces and slip a 1 x 4 cleat in there). These are not much for hanging strength though, mainly they pull the wall tight to the cabinet edge for less gapping.
Occaisionally it is helpful to hang from the top by screwing into the wall plates or a strong cleat set into dead space above the cabs or by drilling through the cabinet top rails into joists (or cleats that are attached to the joists). These are rare strategies though.
One final note... for a little insurance on any dicey jobs, you can run a bit of caulk around the edges... this adds quite a bit of strength (as can be witnessed by demoing cabs that have been treated this way). Some liquid nails on the backs can also add to the total strength.
The big picture: don't worry too much as I have NEVER had any cabs that I have installed fall or even sag from their proper positions! It is an additive thing... get connection points as well as you can for each cab... then attach them solidly to each other so that they share loading... then caulk and/or moldings around them... and VOILA! You have them set solidly enough to outlast their most optimistic lifespans.
Thank you for your reply and to everyone that have replied to my question. All of your info is Very usefull for me and it has giving the confidence that my cabinets will be solid on the wall!!!
You're welcome and MERRY CHRISTMAS.
I also construct my boxes with a 5/8 back. I use #14 screws with 1/4 inch finishing washers attaching the box at the top and bottom to each stud. Attaching it to one stud has never been a problem. I attach the adjacent boxes together to keep the front edges aligned. The units attached this way act as a single unit.
As for screws for hinges, I avoid the problem of screws pulling out by using Blum INSERTA hinges. i have never had a failure with these hinges. If you do go for screws make certain that you use hinges with a coarse thread.
wg,
Does the hinge mounting bracket that attaches to the cabinet use screws ?
It's not where the hinge is bored into the back of the door only that fails but also the cabinet bracket screws will have a limited holding power in composition board .
dusty
The recommendations have been good. A good screw to use is from FastCap Tools http://www.fastcap.com/products.aspx?id=250 . It has a self-tapping point and nibs under the head to self-countersink. The head is much larger diameter and will not pull through! The shank is tough. There are assembly bolts, sometimes called sex-bolts to fasten cabinets sides together. Lowes and Home Depot have them. They are 2 piece and have a washer head on both halves of a smooth shank, and are male & female, 1 has the bolt, and 1 has the threads inside the shank.
Your post does not say which type of Euro hinges you bought; are they the big Euro or the compacts for face frame cabinets? You can add additional hinges to a door based on the need of weight or height. Blum recommends this. Course thread screws are correct on mdf, and length is important. If you bought compact hinges, they may or not have only 1 screw to mount to a face frame. 2 screws are better. If you are at all worried about screws pulling out of something, some drops of glue on the screws will make them miserable to get out!
If at all possible a ledger to span the wall is a good way to hang the 3 cabinets. There are metal ones used to hang closets so the floor is completely clear.
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