I’m using handsaws with increasing frequency. Less dust, less noise, less danger. I have the specialty saws, i.e., the dovetail saws and tenon saws. My question is, what do people use for general purpose handsaws, such as ripping or crosscutting stock?
I did a search of the word “handsaw” in Knots and it occurs with amazing infrequency, suggesting not many of us use them or at least have questions about them.
I am not too keen on Japanese saws, so what Western saws do people use? Garrett Wade sells a few, including the “traditional” longer (26″) handsaws like my grandfather used to use. Does anyone use them? Garrett Wade also sells some hi-tech looking saws. In general, does anyone out there use handsaws for basic ripping and crosscutting and, if so, what do you use? Charles, what do you use?
Replies
not much interest in handsaws apparently - - I use them regularly - particularly crosscut, seldom rip with one - I have three crosscut, (aside from backsaws, etc) all auction/sale purchsed - three different lengths - small - medium- large- - if your interested, I'll measure lengths and teeth/inch - the key to happiness is being able to maintain/sharpen/set them - a saw vise and a good set and file -
I'm thinking the pervasivness of chop/SCM saws have done in the handsaw -
Mark,
Try Disston...there may be a better result with your search...
Well, since the majority of my time is in someone elses house, efficiency usually dictates the saw plugs in. But I keep others around. I have a cheapo Fat Max that actually works great and quick for those onesy twosy rough cuts where all you're doing is lopping the end off a 2x, but that's probably not your bag. I have a really old saw that was my dads that was my granddads, it's a backsaw and nobody could read what brand it is anymore, thats useful for, again, small quick tasks where you're grabbing the miter box. Probably the best quality of the bunch. Also useful for finishing a miter that stops, such as in some old door trim where the cove ends at the head with a 45. Then coping saws. I have a set in the shop from I don't recall where, Garret Wade maybe, they're red handled and say Paragon on them. ABSOLUTE garbage. I can't believe what a waste of money they were. So those, incidentally, don't see much usage.
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
Mark,
If you're buying new (which you probably don't need to, see below), Pax or Lynx are reasonable quality.
The old saws are still freely available through garage sales, etc.... I have my father's/grandfather's saws and a couple of ebay saws. Having said that, I'd recommend that you consider buying something like the old Disston saws sold by Pete Taran, who will send you a saw that is properly tuned, built at a time when tradesmen relied on their hand tools and (above all) sharp so you have a benchmark to aim at. Look through the FAQ for reasons why on Pete Taran's site. Note that they're pretty dear - I just looked at prices (edit)... I didn't remember them as being that dear, but what I said still stands valid, albeit a luxury option.
I tend to use a 20" Disston regularly and a 14" tenon saw.
I rip with an old (who knows what brand) saw that is 6tpi and cuts a dream.
Growing up in a timber town, I used to work for the local saw doctor after school and can sharpen a hand saw acceptably well, but I still pay a saw doctor to do it these days, costs USD10- for a hand-sharpened job (not a machine file) that is excellent.
Hope that this helps,
eddie
Edited 5/16/2003 11:17:53 PM ET by eddie (aust)
Edited 5/17/2003 12:01:47 AM ET by eddie (aust)
It might also be worthwhile checking with your sharpener ... they often have reconditioned older hand saws.
Ken
All terrific responses, as usual. Thank you.
The best western-style handsaws I've seen lately are Pax, available from Lee Valley. I have a couple of new ones, as well as a couple I inherited from my grandfather. (He brought them from England in 1913.) I tried a prototype saw that Lie-Nielsen was developing a couple of years ago, but Tom hasn't brought them to market yet. Sure wish he would... it was a great saw.
Mark, Pax rip and crosscut saws are staples in my shop, along with my favorite Sandvik bought a few years ago from Home Quarters. I have a Disston rip saw. Virtually no difference in performance from the Pax rip saw. Let me emphasize that - virtually no difference that I can tell. And the Disston was completely reworked by an expert (not me).
The Pax saws came in a very usable condition. The purchase of a vintage saw could very well entail sending the saw to the saw doctor (Tom Law or his equivalent).
Before you go all to pieces over the vintage saws, remember that all sawn edges are finished with a hand plane anyway.
Edited 5/17/2003 7:34:00 PM ET by CHASSTANFORD
Hi Charles,
I'm a cabinetmaker, and all my commission work at home is done with hand tools (have three light sleepers in the house).
I have a Lynx saw, still sharpened from a Melbourne saw doctor - I find that the blade's a bit too thick for my liking (making the saw bite deeply a/c weight of the blade - have to lift the saw up as the cut is being made to relieve some of the weight of the blade and stop it binding), but the saw is acceptable overall.
Cuts sweetly once I figured out how to use it.
My preference is for the 20" Disston I mentioned earlier, but this may change if and when the Lynx needs resharpening and I'll get the local saw doctor I trust to resharpen it. The problem may be part set (have already run a stone down the teeth to get it cutting smoother) - we'll see.
Cheers,
Andrew
Good luck; I'm sure that you'll find the Lynx saw serviceable at a minimum.
Do you have an email address or telephone # for the saw doctor (Tom Law) that you mentioned? Thanks.
bsmith,
look in the FAQ section of the Pete Taran linked to in my earlier post in this thread.
Tom Law's contact details are in there.
Cheers, eddie
Mark,
I recommend the Disston D23 lightweight panel saw in 8, 9 or 10 tpi crosscut from the late 1940s to early 1950s period. I say this period because the quality is still very high and yet you can find one that is pristine, in never-used condition and virtually brand-new. I bought one like this for under $100 and have seen several others since then on various old tool dealer's web sites, catalogs and other outlets. You will not be disappointed. I use mine all the time and only fire up the circular saw if I have a lot of material to saw through (i.e. more than 5 or 6 2X4s and 2x6's). Good luck, Ed
Thanks, Ed. Where do you find these saws? On that vintage tools website?
Mark,
I guess the motherlode of vintage tools would be http://www.mjdtools.com. (It takes a while for their tools for sale web page to load due to about a bazillion hyperlinks). MJDtools has a web site with a search engine where you can find just about any vintage tool in any condition. They also have a catalog and do periodic on-line auctions. Need a Miller's Falls type 2 No. 18 Fore Plane in mint condition? - you can find it there. Just about anything. The drawback (and this is only an opinion) is that they are pricey, expensive. I have bought something from them before and the service, shipping, etc is excellent.
You can often beat the prices by going to smaller vintage tool dealers. To find them I would go to the "electronic Neanderthal" web site - I forget the address but you can find it by googling, go to the vintage tools links suggested, then do ever-expanding google searches outward to find the small-time dealers. For instance, I bought my saw from a small-time dealer at http://www.yesterdaystools.com. I think he's out of business now, but I bought several tools from him and was happy with all of them.
Good luck. Sorry for the long reply.
mark,
as mentioned before, http://www.vintagesaws.com has lots of nice saws, as well as a wealth of good info. pete's saws are very expensive, but he offers saw filing kits as well. these are a very good deal at $40. you may choose your saw, and pete will cut any tooth pattern you like, from 4 point rip to 14 point crosscut.
he'll mail you the saw with filing directions and the right size file. even if you screw up the filing, you still have a guaranteed good quality saw for $40 which you can get sharpened. if you can sharpen plane irons and chisels, you can sharpen a saw. i do it all the time. on top of all that, your supporting a guy who has done a lot to keep good old disstons on the market.
-check out some saws here:
http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/frameset.cgi?left=products&right=/kits/kits.html
-kit
Thanks very much.
Hi Mark -
Recently I dug out my old Craftsman hand saw, the typical crosscut panel saw type of thing, took it up to have it sharpened after cleaning up the blade and waxing it, and have re-discovered the joy of hand-eye corridation! Today, in fact, I helped a neighbor replace a 4x4 column on there front porch. I forgot to allow for the thickness of the post to beam bracket and needed to trim off about an 1/8" from the initial cut.
I remember as a kid watching some carpenters work on my folks' house. One guy cut a 1/4" or so off the end of a 2x. I was never able to do that until today, I decided I'd use the hand saw to trim that 1/8" off the post instead of carry it back to the shop and whack it off with the chop saw.
It was sooooooo cool!! A sharp, clean blade and patience. And done in less time than carrying the thing to the shop, etc.
I also like using a Japanese style saw for trimming tails and stuff off turned pieces. The cut is so ..... supreme.
I have lots of neat things that plug into the wall which seem to want to separate appendages from the rest of my body - hand tools, while not totally safe by any means, certainly are enjoyable to use.
Incidentally, that Craftsman handsaw is one of the first tools I ever bought close to 40 years ago.
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Hi Mark If you go on ebay and put disston in the search engine you should get 75 to a 100 auctions to look at. I wouldn't bid more than 20 dollars, you will win one sooner or later. I just got a #7 for 4.50. I also have gotten two d-8 1 x-cut 1 rip both were under 20 dollars.Hope this helps Jerry
I use my handsaws all the time. I've probably got almost 10 now in various conditions. I would definitely recommend learning to sharpen them yourself. Being able to take a dull piece of steel and turn it into something that'll cut smoothly, quietly and cleanly is a very satisfying experience. It was also great to hear Grandpa talk about how he remembers his dad sharpening saws by hand. And I didn't even know my Great-Grandpa could do that when I decided to teach myself how to do it.
I would say stick to Disstons if you dont know much about saws. I seem to find them all the time at garage sales and flea markets, just be willing to clean them up and sharpen 'em. I wouldn't pay more than $10 for a user.
When people 100 years from now see my work, they'll know I cared. --Matt Mulka
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