Replies

1. 
   gdblake | Jun 06, 2011 03:47pm | #1

   You are not holding the plane level

   GW:

   If I am understanding you, you are tilting the plane toward yourself as you plane.  There are three ways to deal with this problem.  One, correct the tilt of the plane so that it is square to the face of the board as you plane.  Two, if your iron is sharpened straight across change the lateral adjustment of the iron so that you have more iron exposed to remove the high side of the edge and bring the board into square.  Three, if you put a slight camber (curve) on the cutting edge of the iron you can accomplish the same thing by using the left side of the iron to plane with.  The center of the plane is run down the high edge.  Because of the camber, more iron is exposed in the middle of the plane that along the planes edges.

   If you are saying that only the last few inches of the board slope away, then you are putting too much pressure on the knob or toe of the plane.  You want to start the stroke with more pressure on the toe of the plane to firmly register the sole of the plane against the board.  As you move into the cut balance the downward pressure between the toe and heel of the plane once all of the plane is on the board.  Toward the end of the stroke stop using downward pressure on the knob or toe of the plane and only continue downward pressure at the heel or tote end of the plane until the iron moves off the end of the board.

   I hope this helps.

   gdblake

1. 
   GW52 | Jun 07, 2011 10:25am | #2

   gdblake,

   Thanks I will give it a try to see what happens. Most of the cut is at 90 degrees to the face and the last 6 or so inches starts to slope away.

   Greg

1. 
   roc | Jun 07, 2011 03:58pm | #3

   Looks like a contradiction but ya' got to read the article

   OK here is the FWW article I had in mind.

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2079

2. 
   lwilliams | Jun 11, 2011 07:52am | #8

   What plane are you using and how is your plane set up? Is your iron cambered?

2. 
   roc | Jun 07, 2011 04:01pm | #4

   the last 6 inches

   In a vise you say ?

   Nah dude nah.  You don't hold the stick in the vise. This may be part of the problem.  A photo would help if you can provide one.

   If the stick is narrow enough it may be bending or twisting under the plane.  One of the best bits of advise when learning to plane edges came from, I believe, Ian Kirby.  

   He said don't clamp the stick.  Just stand it up on edge on the bench top.  Plane the edge.  if it falls over you were not planing square anyway.  When you can plane the edge and have is stay up you are beginning to "get it".

   Note how there is just a stop against which the board is placed but there is no second bench dog clamping behind it.  No need. See the book called The Work Bench Book page 83.  If you have that book.

   Also when you are trying to get things done you don't want to always be clamping and unclamping the vise.  That just wastes time.  It is actually quite easy to do this even with a narrow board as I have here.  Note that is a # 1 plane; tiny.

   When one clamps a little board like this or even a larger one it can distort the thing and cause problems in the outcome.

   I am assuming you are clamping the board in a front vise or something.  I am assuming the end is not supported.  This is why a flat bench is important.  It supports your work along its length so it doesn't  bend or twist away from the plane/tool etc.

   How does this compare to your set up ?

   
1. 
   gdblake | Jun 09, 2011 02:50pm | #7

   This only works if the opposite edge is straight and square

   Roc:

   Not using a vise sounds great, but planing the edge of a board on top of the bench when the opposite edge is neither straight or square isn't all that easy.  One option is to "trap" the board on the ends with wooden jawed clamps to hold the board upright and square to the benchtop (you also need to shim any areas between the board and bench that shows daylight or the board will just bend down when the plane hits that area and leave you with a wavy edge).  Of course, a guy can always create a straight square edge by running the piece through the tablesaw, assuming you have one.  Otherwise, using a good vise to hold the board works just fine.  I've been planing long narrow boards held in vises for over 40 years and don't have any problems getting straight, square edges.  You do need to work into the vise and clamp the board solidly to the front of the bench to avoid any tendency of the board to bow under the weight of the plane.  It also helps if the front of the bench is straight and perfectly vertical.  You are right though, if the poster is trying to plane a narrow board several inches past the vise the board is going to flex and mess with the trueness of the cut.

   gdblake

3. 
   Westchester | Jun 07, 2011 07:32pm | #5

   Tilt

   When I first started using a hand plane - the shop teacher had us scribe a line around the board  with a  marking gauge.  Darken in with a pencil then just take your time and work to the line on all sides -

   SA

1. 
   roc | Jun 07, 2011 07:48pm | #6

   Based on ?

   That is assuming you have an already flat/straight surface to run the marking gauge against to make the lines.

4. 
   roc | Jun 11, 2011 08:32pm | #9

   Bravo Niner FoxTrot to Golf Whiskey Five Two come in Five Two

   > How does this compare to your set up ?<

   >A photo would help if you can provide one.<

   >What plane are you using and how is your plane set up?<

   >Is your iron cambered?<

   Larry,

   GW52 seems to be incommunicado

    

5. 
   GW52 | Jun 14, 2011 09:50am | #10

   GW52 seems to be incommunicado

   I started out with a 90 degree edge because the 6 inch jointer's fence was set that way. I wanted to get some practice doing it the old way, by hand. It seems that gdblake's suggestion worked and now the joint is acceptable. I have had a problem with hand planing even with  wide stock, ie table legs. As they say practice makes perfect and I still have some practicing to do. Thanks for the info.

   Greg

1. 
   CedarGroves | Jul 01, 2011 06:35pm | #11

   Consider your bench height

   I had a similar problem when I started out and changing my bench height solved that problem for me. My bench at the time was at about mid-wrist height and when I tried edge-planing stock I would always get a good 90 at the start of the board but the edge would dive towards me at the end. I spent hours sharpening, lapping, and adjusting my planes before I even considered the ergonomics of my bench and how I was using it. As it turned out, my bench was too high for me and as I moved through a cut I was pulling the plane towards me trying to put even pressure on it - causing that bad edge at the end of the board. I lowered my bench until it was at a height where my fingers and palm meet and now I am in a much more comfortable position for planing boards and my edge problem took care of itself. Just some food for thought, people tend to overlook ergonomics - I know I did.

   Hand planing really is an indispensable skill to have, so keep practicing and don't give up - just keep making those lovely shavings and enjoy the finer things in life (like using hand planes).

   -Ian

1. 
   roc | Jul 01, 2011 10:01pm | #12

   Bravo to all you wrote Ian.

    Bravo  !