Hi:
I am now hand planing the surface of my “Frank Klausz” style bench and my new LV #4 1/2 is leaving scratches on the surface. It seems to be happening at the edge of the blade. I read something somewhere that these edges should be relieved or rounded. Does anyone know how to do this?
I also don’t know which sequence to plane with. I have Bailey’s #4, #5, #6(the blade on this one is rounded and kind of takes scoops out of the wood) and a #7 on the way. I also have the Lee Valley #4 1/2.
Thanks
Roger
Replies
Rog You would want to use the #6 to level & remove any twist the top has. Then use the #5 to remove the tracks left by the fore plane. Then use the smoother. As far as removing the sharp corners, I just tilt the blade to one side then the other after the blade has been sharpened. Hope this helps Jerry
Rog,
The edge of a smooth plane should have an extremely slight curve to its edge. I do this by getting the edge dead flat along its length. I keep the edge flat while honing up to finest stone, or in my case sand paper. When I get to the fine grit, I hone, applying more pressure to the edges. When held to the light, against a straight edge, the irons edge will show just the slightest curvature. I would guess that this curve would measure about .002-.003". You'll know when you have a good balance between a sufficient curve to eliminate the tear marks, and one that is too pronounced, when you get a shaving that is nearly the full width of the iron, but not leaving the tear marks. This is one of those things that become second nature after a short learning curve ( pardon the pun).
On the order of plane use. I use my scrub plane to work the bulk off, and then switch to a fore or jointer plane. After you get a true surface, one which you get a continuous shaving from end to end, and the surface is true as checked with a straight edge and winding sticks, switch to your carefully sharpened smooth plane. You'll get superior surface quality in hardwoods, if you hone a very small ( actually almost invisible) back bevel on the flat side of your iron. I make this back bevel about 5-10 degrees. To keep the same cutting angles on the iron, I grind the primary bevel 5-10 degrees lower than normal, or in other words between 20-25 degrees. This back bevel in effect raises the bed angle of the plane, which has a significant impact on the planes ability to handle tricky grain.
Rob Millard
Rog
Start with the #6. 'cause bothe irons are 2 3/8 wide, you should be able to fit the #4 1/2's iron in your #6 i.e. you shuldn't have to regrind the #6's blade if you want to keep it rounded.
use the #4 and #4 1/2 for final smoothing
Dub over the corners of the iron on your medium stone. Take them down just a hair so they are lower than the rest of the blade.
Edited 1/25/2004 8:21:36 AM ET by BossCrunk
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