Replies

1. 
   CharlieD | Dec 02, 2004 11:26am | #1

   It does take practice, but you'l get a better surface this way once you get the hang of it.

   A dip in the middle can be (depending who you talk to) a good thing; it's called a "sprung" joint, and the idea is that the joint will stay tight at the ends due to the pressure on the boards at that point. You wouldn't want more than say, 1/32 therem though, and some folks don't like the idea at all.

   I'd guess that if you're getting dips at the ends, you are not applying the right pressure in the right places. Try this: as you start the cut, with most of the back of the plane hanging off, keep nearly all downward pressure on the front knob; use the handle for forward pressure only. If the rear of the plane drops down at this juncture, it'll take a little bit of the corner as it passes. Then each time you pas over it again, the error will be exaggerated. The reverse is true at the other end; if you let the front of the plane dip down as you pass over that corner, it'll take some off there, too. So, in that case, keep any downward pressure on the handle, and use the knob only to guide. As far as a dip in the middle, they happen to me too, sometimes, but I try to use it to my advantage as described above. I believe that's just from not keeping a consistent downward pressure; more is applied in the middle in that case. Really, I think little or no downward pressure is required. Straight across and let the plane do it's job, is the goal.

   Charlie

   I tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut
2. 
   Alan | Dec 02, 2004 01:01pm | #2

   bo,

   I have a 1 meter long steel rule and a 40" long extruded aluminum rule that I use to find the high spots on the edges.  I set one of them on the edge I'm jointing, look for the high spots, and mark them with a pencil.

   I plane only the high spots at first.  Depending on how high they are, I take only two or so swipes and then re-check with the rule.  I keep planing only the high spots until eveything looks pretty straight.  Only then do I take a shaving from one end to the other.  Depending on how good a job I did on the high spots, sometimes only one end to end swipe is necessary.

   Obviously, doing it this way I don't plane both boards at the same time.  I suppose I could do them together after I've gotten them both pretty straight, but I don't see a reason to do so.  Gluing up a panel where the edges aren't square can be a problem:  as you apply clamp pressure the edges can slip and make one board higher than the other at the joint; they usually don't slip much, but even a little adds a problem you have to fix.  I always want my edges square.  If the edge isn't quite square it's not that tough to get it right.  All it takes is some time and some practice.

   Going for the high spots like this I don't have to worry as much about taking off too much at the ends.  It is important only when I take an end to end swipe.

   Everyone comes up with their own method to begin and end an end to end pass correctly.  At the beginning I like to push down with my left hand and kind of pull up a little with my right.  At the far end I do the opposite:  I push down with my right hand and hold up the toe of the plane with my left.  You'll soon find a way that works for you; it isn't all that hard.

   Hand planing with a well tuned plane, a sharp iron and compliant wood is a delight; it's a treat to the senses and a tonic to the mind.  It becomes pleasantly mesmerizing.  You'll soon buy scrap wood just to plane; you'll find you need just about every plane you come across; you'll wonder why anyone would take their plane and wood money and buy food for the baby or pay the rent.

   It's very addictive.

   You have been warned!

   Alan