What is best? Motor on the left and blade on the right OR blade on the right and motor left?
Thanks,
Don
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast -
Our favorite articles and videos -
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Because of a gift I ended up with one of each....and use them both. Each has it's advantages for specific types of work. My advice to you is to stick with the one you grew up with. You'll be more comfortable and probably a little safer.
I have an old Skill worm drive (cast iron)that my father used as a carpenter, and a B&D plastic job for the right side.
Being Left handed, I prefer the worm drive but it is heavy.
This is why I just ordered the PC 743k (blade left) It will replace my old heavy friend. I also like this one because the dust chute is directional you can point it in the direction you want it to go. I always hated the sawdust blowing into me with the blade on the right.
Use what is comfortable for you.
Edited 3/17/2004 7:05 pm ET by bones
I'm right-handed and would love to have a saw that had the blade to the left of the motor. It's really hard for me to accurately follow a line having to look over (or past) the motor to the blade.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I'm in the market for a 743 also... may have to order one as it seems btwn the local Lowes and Home Depot neither ever have one in stock. The argument I've heard *against* using one w/ the blade on the left is that w/ a 'normal' one, most right handed people will cut a crosscut a board w/ the waste on the right side, and the mass of the board to them, on the left. If you do that w/ a CS like a 743, the saw is going to cut it's support right out from underneath itself, as the part the shoe is on is going to fall off. Nothing a little fore-thinking wouldn't get around, but its a consideration (for some)
Monte
FG: You didn't mention what size saw you were looking at. Makita makes an excellent trim saw 4 3/8 in. (left handed) It won't cut a 2x4 , but excellent for trim work. Also you can put a diamond blade on if you have to cut tile or other stone. BTW they also make a left handed 5 1/2 in. saw that will cut a 2 X 4 at 90. I've used both these saws and IMO i think there great.
Ben
Yep, I love the looks of those little trim saws. Given today's economics, it's an item waaaayyyy down the tool list, but what I'd really like to get is a cordless version for quick plywood cuts, especially when I'm dealing with 1/4" ply -- dragging out my big heavy old Craftsman saw seem so stupid!!!
Thanks for the real-life user's tip, Ben.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
As a southpaw living in a right handed world, I've been 'adapting' all my life. I only use circular saws with the blade on the right since I can easily see the blade and literally keep the corners of the teeth on my line.
Usually the cutoff side of the workpiece falls away leaving the keeper. But you can do it the other way around I suppose. Just have it so the heavy side of the saw sits on the part of the work which won't fall away, I find it easier this way having more control over the saw at the last part of the cut. It's all getting used to a certain way of cutting.
While looking for reviews of the PC 743 I found this link. It was very informative and at the bottom is a link to a plan from FWW for building a table for cutting panels. It was very interesting and addressed the issue of supporting work while cutting. This is important form me since I cannot afford an expensive panel saw and I'm a one man show. I ordered the PC and a forrest blade to cut the panels with. Now I just need a good straight edge, but that's another thread.
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/pc743.htm
My personal preference is for the blade on the left side of the motor. I'm right handed and I typically pick up our old worm drive. It's heavier but I've never had it bog down as long as the blade was half way decent. As far as issues with having the heavier part of the saw on the off cut piece I either use the shop floor or place something sacrificial underneath so that my off cut doesn't go crashing to the floor. Hope this helps.
Datachanel
Doing things the hard way
DON
I'm right handed and thought that the blade on the left made more sense (line of sight and seemed more logical). Purchased a PC left sider at Lowe's and took it home. Laid it down on stock and made a dry run. Did it again. Did it another time just to be sure.
Boxed it back up and took it back to Lowe's an exchanged for the blade on right as I have used for 40 plus years. Now, I'm a happy camper with the PC (love that maganeseum base for it's strenght and low weight).
Bottom line is the left blade made me feel extremely out of place and un-comfortable. It was a big distraction in my case. I suggest if you can arrange to, play at the store and see what feels natural to you. I was surprised at what I found!
Regards...
sarge..jt
Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
"...the left blade made me feel extremely out of place and un-comfortable." Just stop by here, Sarge, we'll give you a big group hug.
"It was a big distraction in my case." Excuses, excuses, LOL!
I'd not thought about the issues mentioned above (weight on waste side). Glad y'all brought that up.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I found once I got used to a wormdrive saw the other style was clumsy I have a portercable 743k and it works well but got used to a skill worm drive and even though it weighs more its easier to use.
FG
I have an old ShopMate circular that was given to me back in 72' used. It was my first circular and became my TS mounted upside down. I was waiting for it to quit so I could get the PC with the left blade. It never did, it still functions as my regular circular and the PC is my panel saw.
Finally just broke down and purchased the left side blade as I thought it would have a better line of sight and would be easier to use on wide cuts. Couldn't wait till I had one as I knew this was the ticket to total enlightenment.
It didn't feel right from the start. I never made a cut and it just didn't present itself in my hands well. Maybe for some, but not for me. I could use one in a pinch, but I want to feel confident when I got a blade spinning at 4000 rpm plus. The right side is my choice for that after my encounter. I can't give you a technical answer why. The feeling I have with that left side blade is not technical. It's just my mind and body telling me Right Blade is "right for me". ???
Regards...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
............. my feelings exactly. Blade on the left feels uncomfortable and not right to me; I suppose 30 years of using blade on the right has something to do with it. I don't like support falling away at the end of the cut and the extra dust in face with a left blade saw- reasons I could never learn to like a worm drive tho' I've tried. No problems with a 347 following a line.
jc
I didn't even get as far as the dust in your face issue and the where the stock fell. It just wasn't right. Those issues would have come into play though. I use the right blade for mostly panels and I do have an attachment hooked to the PC and one of my small 6 gal. Shop-Vacs. Gets about 90% of the saw-dust.
The vac would be out in a framing situation, but I do love the PC. Power, sturdy, light-weight and it's just got the touch. I've never been in the situation that a worm would be necessary, so I can't comment at all since I have never used one. I like those little 4 1/2" PC's, but once I used the 347 I ruled it out. The price is a bit steep also for what you can really do with them which is panels for the most part.
Regards...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I've got much the same setup for inside work; the PC hose hooked up to a 20 gal. Shop Vac. I'm amazed how well it works. I've been hunting around for one for one of those switches that start the vacuum when you start the saw- the one I did find won't handle the 15 amps of the 347. Any recommendations for a good 7 1/4" plywood/panel blade? Also wondered if you've ever dealt with W. J. Redmond and Son for machinery- are they a good outfit? Thanks
jc
I have used several 7 1/4" blades before I finally found one that I prefer. Now sit down and grab your heart medicine, as this will shock you. I use a $9.95 Oldham 60 tooth carbide blade from HD. I set up with a Tru-Grip to get the line then score the actual cut-line before I cut. Chip-free with an in-expensive blade. There may be something that will work better out of the chute, but for the money it's "a lot of bang for the buck". IMO, a rare case of you get a lot more than you pay for.
W.J. Redmond & Son have been the General dealer here in Atlanta for awhile. Very nice show-room over off Fulton-Industrial Blvd. Have been there a number of times and they are always at the Atlanta WW Show in the spring.
Extremely nice folks and very customer oriented. Family as you can imagine from the name. I crawled up under a General TS at their show-room once. Wanted to get a look at the guts. I sensed the presence of something beside me. One of the Redmonds had crawled up under and ask if I had any questions. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Everyone I know local that has dealt with them considers it a pleasure to do business with them. Rock steady up to this point and seem to continue to "aim to please".
Regards...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I gotta agree with jc and Sarge. I have only used the blade on the right models and having the blade on the left side between me and my hand scares me.
In response to the "follow the line" comments, I can't remember the last time I did not use a straight edge for a guide. Clamp-n-tool guides mostly, or framing square with a board clamped to it or just a board quick clamped.
Enjoy, Roy
It didn't feel right from the start. ......and it just didn't present itself in my hands well.
I think it's funny how you say that. Cause for years I worked with my pc saw, blade right (nice saw by the way) and just never really got the feel of it. Then was forced to work with a skil worm drive and now, I would never look back. Once I got used to the wieght, it's hard for me to work with a saw that is lighter. To me, the weight is an advantage and only a disadvantage when doing overhead work (but who cuts with a skil saw overhead anyway?) Once I got the feel of the saw, it was pretty much..... pull the trigger and hand on! The saw does all the work and I am literally there just for the ride.
Still use my pc saw for straight edge cutting of sheet goods. The skil base plate is no good for straight edge work.
Rob Kress
Rob
I think a tool's feel is a personal thing and will vary with each. The grip I prefer on a pistol for instance would not necessarily be your cup of tea. I thought the blade left would make more sense. After several dry runs it just didn't for me. The thought of where that saw-dust was going on the blade left didn't excite me either as I use my saw mostly in the shop and saw-dust travel is a concern.
The PC is about a pound or so lighter, but with the 15 amp it has plenty of power. Keep in mind I don't use it daily framing. This is a completely different set of circumstances. The saw just feels good for me doing panels. It's easier to handle on 48" wide stuff IMO. I do use a Tru-Grip so any saw with that just has to be firmed againt it's rail.
If you read one of my earlier post, I have an old Shop-Mate I use for decks, etc.. Now, it's much heavier and has a rock solid steel base that was machined extremely square. I have had several frame carpenters offer to buy it. Nope, it was the main component of my first TS and it's staying home with me. Still a workhorse as it was given to me in 73' and it had been heavily used before that. I suspect a 50's make. Not sure though.
If the Shop-Mate does ever decide to seek it's final rest (no signs so far), I am completely satisfied with the newer PC and will use that for the limited outside work I do. Got a deck and stairs replace coming up soon, but my SCMS will get a lot of call on that as the deck is just around the corner from the shop and I can pre-cut lenghts and angles then have my teen-age son flunkie them around the corner. ha.. ha....
Regards...
sarge..jt Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Don,
You might want to take a look at the Festool circular saw. It's a robustly-built European tool that utilizes a track that integrates spectacularly with the saw base (they also make a router that uses the same track). The results are impressive, with a lot of the advantages of a panel saw at a lower cost.
When it comes to standard handheld circular saws, my personal preference is for one with the blade on the right. I'm right-handed and the saw rests securely on the work; the waste falls away to the right as you complete the cut.
I've used saws with the blade on the left, but found them uncomfortable because the weight of the saw rests on the waste side of the cut, which begins to move as you cut and falls away leaving the saw unsupported when the cut is completed.
If you're going to use your circular saw for production work, like framing houses, the extra weight of a worm drive will be justified by its bulletproof construction. If you'll be using your saw less often but will still need to cut through thicker materials, you'll probably prefer the lighter "sidewinder" version. For occasional work trimming sheet goods in your shop, you may prefer trimsaws with their smaller blades and light weight.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Edited 3/19/2004 12:50 pm ET by jazzdogg
Worm drive saws were reviewed in the February issue of the Journal of Light Construction.
Their top three picks were:DeWalt DW378GMakita 5277NBBosch 1677M
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Don,
I've got the PC 743-left side saw, a right side skil saw, have used worm drive saws ( makita and skil), and now own the Festool ATF55 saw system.
I think it comes down to personal preference. I bought the left sided saw thinking that it would be easier to follow the line, but there was a learning curve for many of the reasons mention earlier in the posts here. I changed the way that I cut material to fit the saw.
Now my PC sits in the box most of the time now that I have the Festool system. The only time it may make it out is when I have alot of scribing of casework to do in the field.
I believe the PC has a 30-day return policy, so if you don't like it you can take it back no questions asked.
Craig.
This thread explains why I don't like my cheap circular saw with the blade on the right.
If I were doing framing and construction, the arguments for blade on the right make great sense for a right handed person.
Practically the only time I use my saw is when I have a full panel that needs to have a hunk taken off. Split in two, I can usually handle on the table saw, even alone. But way off center, forget it. So I use saw horses, braces, or the prayer position on the floor to get a rough cut with my circular saw. And wish the blade were on the left so I could see the line, or see if I have cut far enough if I am only taking off a corner. When I am cutting sheets of $100 plywood, NOTHING drops to the floor...there is no scrap! I have even considered the Festool saw so the first cut is the final cut.
I guess the answer depends on whether you are cutting framing or sheet goods in addition to whether you are right or left handed. ________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
Those Fein's with the built in dust collector nozzel and the track system look awesome. They have a plunge cut system, too and the same track works for their routers and jig saws.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
love my pc 743k (blade left)
Slim
i use a blade to right pc building trusses everyday and find blade left feels very strange to me mostly because beveling is very strange but i would love an old worm drive for my shop
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled