Replies

1. 
   Clay | Nov 10, 2004 08:41am | #1

   I don't know how well the Franklin glue would perform for you.  I'd tend to use the old reliable stuff.  You don't really need a hundred dollar glue pot though.   A ten dollar little crockpot from Walmart will suffice.  Put a glass container inside of it and water outside of that (creating sort of a double boiler arrangement).  Then keep it set on low heat (unless it's real cold in your shop).  You might get this equipment even cheaper at a yard sale or goodwill store.  A Pyrex measuring cup makes a good interior glue container if you don't find something handy in the cupboard.

2. 
   RMillard | Nov 10, 2004 01:59pm | #2

   Liquid hide will not work for hammer veneering. Hammer veneering requires a glue that will set quickly, something liquid hide glue is specifically designed not to do. Hot hide glue on the other hand, will gel very quickly, creating a tenacious bond in only seconds ( of course the full strength bond requires several hours to develop) Hammer veneering is an excellent way to adhere veneer.

   I use the 251 gram strength ground glue sold by Olde Mill Cabinet Shoppe, or Behlen, although some like the lower strength pearl glue. As noted above, you don't need a glue pot, but if you end up doing any appreciable amount of hammer veneering they are a wise investment. If your substrate is at all porous ( like pine or poplar) then give it a coat of thinned down glue the day before you veneer. Actually a glue size like this is a good idea for any substrate. I never bother to precisely measure the glue, as some people do, I just pour in what I think is enough dry glue to complete the task at hand, and add water until the glue is fully submersed. let that sit for an hour or so, and heat. Add water to the heated glue until it will run off the brush in a steady stream. If it runs off in drops, you have it too thin. I also add a little white vinegar, which seems to help the initial tack, but don't over do the vinegar, a ratio of 95% water to 5% vinegar is about right. As you work the glue will loose water and require the addition of more ( this is why I think it is unnecessary to worry about exact proportions in the beginning). I Made my own hammer using a UHMW plastic as a blade. Nothing sticks to this stuff, not even hide glue which will stick to every thing else known to man. Some people suggest putting glue on both faces of the veneer, and while this approach does make it somewhat easier to hammer, it is a mess. The plastic blade I use is slick enough that the addition of glue on the face is not necessary. I just slap some glue on the substrate, then wipe or spray a little water on the face of the veneer and immediately place it over the glue. In any but the hottest weather, the glue will gel so quickly that you won't have time to hammer down, so you'll have to go back with an iron set on low, to reheat the glue. In fact I won't veneer in hot weather, because the process is far more difficult, as the glue won't gel quickly enough. You'll quickly get a feel for the process, and know when things are going right. Never hammer across the grain, and be sure your glue is liquefied when you are hammering. If it starts to cool and forms a lump, it could end up bursting through the veneer, if you continue to hammer. Also, if you have any areas that won't stick and you are sure you had enough glue applied, wait a half hour or so and reheat an hammer again, this will ,99% of the time fix the problem. As you might have guessed, I'm an enthusiastic proponent of hammer veneering. It is very quick, even for complicated patterns. I made a fire screen the other day, which had 20 individual pie shaped pieces set in a sunburst pattern, that took just around an hour and a half to complete, that's only 4 1/2 minutes per "slice" and most of that is cutting and fitting. I've hammer veneered everything from a small card table apron to the top of a large sideboard, so the method is also versatile.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   creekwood | Nov 10, 2004 03:11pm | #3

   Rob, I have a question. On a veneer seam of 60", how would you create the seam? I've overlaped on shorter seams, and then cut through each piece, removing the excess. But would this be the best way on a longer seam?

1. 
   RMillard | Nov 11, 2004 05:18am | #5

   I've never had to make a seam that long, but two ways come to mind.

   First is the way I join shorter seams, and this is with a shooting board. You wouldn't have to go to all the trouble to make a shooting board, just sandwich the veneer between 2 boards and run the plane on its side along the edge of the veneer, checking as you would for a joint in solid wood.

   The other is to place the two sheets of veneer on a sacrificial surface, side by side, as they will be joined. Then run a router fitted with a small diameter straight bit, down the joint guiding it with a straight edge. Even if your guide board is not straight, the joint will be perfect because both pieces were cut at the same time. This a common way to join large sheets of plastic laminate, and think also solid surface counter top material.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   creekwood | Nov 11, 2004 05:57am | #6

   Thanks, Rob. The second technique is the direction I'm leaning. Do you then use veneer  tape to hold the edges together?

2. 
   Telemike | Nov 11, 2004 06:12am | #7

   Thanks. Between your post and Tag Frid's book, I think I know how to do it. I'll make the hammer tomorrow.

   Liquid glue would be easist because I can buy it locally. Flake hide glue may be tougher. I may have to order it. I should be able to keep it hot in a waterbath on the shop woodstove.

3. 
   Crunk | Nov 11, 2004 12:22am | #4

   Old Brown Glue, but the hot stuff is best.

   
   

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   Edited 11/10/2004 4:24 pm ET by BossCrunk