I am setting up my DC. I purchased (self grounding) tubing. I think I may still need to ground it as the connectors and blast gastes are plastic and I would assume non-conductive. Is this so or am I getting carried away?
Thanks
Frank
I am setting up my DC. I purchased (self grounding) tubing. I think I may still need to ground it as the connectors and blast gastes are plastic and I would assume non-conductive. Is this so or am I getting carried away?
Thanks
Frank
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Replies
you'll need to connect a bonding jumper across the gates. I am assuming you purchased metal pipe?
I have my DC system grounded to my water pipe.
Frank
Been wondering the same myself as I have a diverter about half way along which is made of ABS, I figured that as 4" Asian flex doesn't have a grounding wire like the better stuff, there are a couple of blast gates and a non conductive hood as well then some continuous grounding is going to be required.
It is my understanding that at the least the machine & DC should be connectively grounded.
Don
The 'ground' in my shop breaker box is connected to a 10' copper rod drove into the ground just outside the shop. The DC (115V) is connected with 10/2 romex with ground. I made sure that the ground connection to the DC motor was a good one. I also jumpered that ground connection to the metal case of the DC (fan housing). If using metal pipe, you should also jumper it to the fan housing.
Also, i used silver solder (SilFlos) to connect the breaker box ground wire to the ground rod.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
PlaneWood
Solder on a ground rod connection is not a good idea, if you get - minute chance - a lightning strike, or excessive current draw, it will blow out the solder. Use an anti-seize gel on the connection.
Well, actually, i used a grounding connector then soldered that. Down here everything corrodes.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood
The antiseize with prohibit corrosion as well, as long as everything that is exposed is covered with it.
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