My client has asked me to finish their walnut cabinets with a finish that maintains the grey color of unfinished walnut . I have tried clear water based polyurathane, but it seems to lack depth. I tried bleaching with two part bleach, with and with out dye and I can’t seem to find the right combination. Any help would be appreciated.
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Replies
The first thing you need is a piece of the unfinished walnut they want you to match. You ALWAYS need a model to go by.
Bleaching is, at times, a necessary evil. You say you bleached it and dyed it. What color dyes were you using? W.D. Lockwood sells a silver grey dye. I have some in stock but don't use it too often. You may want to call them and buy a sample pack. Woodworkers supply also sells one. They just might do the trick when mixed with a very light brown.
You need some sample wood to work on. Make up the dye full strength. Have another container of clear water to which you add a little of your full strength dye to, a little at a time. Try washing this on your sample board keeping notes on what you've done.
If I were doing this, I would get my base color at least close, seal it and then use a glaze to augment the base color. The glaze could be made using some black and white japan colors. Thin some natural colored oil soluble glaze base ( Ben Moore and Zinseer both have one) to the consistency of milk. Mix separate containers of the black and white with a little of the thinned glaze base. Next add some of the white to the thinned glaze base and mix well. Don't over color it as you want it to be translucent not opaque. Slowly add a little black at a time to grey it out. This color will be very "cool" (or on the blueishgrey side) so I would also have a small amount of burnt umber to " warm" it slightly.
I use a pad to apply my glazes, but you can use a brush. Put it on thin and then with a soft dry brush " feather" the glaze. That is to lightly blend it. If you don't like what you see, wipe it off before it dries. That is one of the best qualities of glazing.
I'm not trying to make this complicated, but give you options. Look in the library for a couple of books like" Professional Painted Finishes" By Ina Brosseau Marx and "The Art of Faux" by Pierre Finkelstein. They explain glazing in depth and are great references.
Let me know how you do.
Peter
Thanks for the reply. I will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks again
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