Replies

1. 
   roc | Nov 25, 2009 02:04pm | #1

   Marine grade paint stripper ( for car, boat and air plane epoxy paint ) should cut it. Or heat.

   Bolsters are normally silver brazed on by the way.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

1. 
   old saw | Nov 25, 2009 02:27pm | #3

   Do you ever sleep?  ;-)

1. 
   roc | Nov 26, 2009 05:34am | #7

   >Do you ever sleep? ;-)<OK you discovered my secret. I'm a vampire.Chicks dig it though.: )(Women : sorry 'bout that chick stuff; just messing around)PS: http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=47040.9rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 11/25/2009 9:41 pm by roc

2. 
   old saw | Nov 25, 2009 02:22pm | #2

   A very cheap grade of lacquer thinner which contains lots of MEK or methyl ethyl ketone might work.  Something with toluene or xylene in it might work, too.  Make sure you do it outside - any of that stuff is real nasty in the way of fumes.  Use a glass container - the stuff eats plastic.  Something else that might work is soaking in hot, white vinegar, but it will etch the metal.  A warm lye solution might work, but I don't know what it would do to brass.

   Something else that would probably work better than chemicals is heat.  Most epoxies - especially the 5 minute ones - are not very heat resistant.  You might try putting the whole thing in an oven at no more than 350 to 400 degrees F. for awhile.   Or you could wrap the cutting portion in a very wet rag to protect the temper of the blade and then carefully heat the bolsters with a propane torch.  That should make the epoxy release.   Don't heat any hotter than necessary and be sure to cool  everything afterwards or residual heat may travel into the tempered portion.  Also, the heat may discolor the bolsters, but they could be buffed shiney again.

   This technique really does work for protecting the blade from the heat, too.  I have several times repaired the damaged sockets on old wood chisels by wrapping the business end in a wet rag while I heated the socket end to forging temperature.  I never had to re-heat-treat the business end - it barely gets warm if the rag is good and wet.

   Another way would be to clamp the blade between two pieces of 1/4 inch plate to protect it from the heat.

   Regards, JW

1. 
   Masrol | Nov 25, 2009 02:46pm | #4

   Thanks for the answer. I will try heating first since I do not have readily lacquer thinner. I will let you all know the result.

   Thanks again for reading and kind of very explanatory answers.

   Take care all! masrolsumairi

2. 
   Masrol | Nov 25, 2009 04:10pm | #5

   Yes old saw, it worked pretty clean and easy.

   Figured out the main culprit of the problem is the distance between two pin holes on one of the bolster is slighty farer than the holes on the blade due to unsteady hand-drilling. So there is no way it can fit snugly. (my DP cannot hold tight 1/16"D dril bit, the smallest drill bit that can be used is 1/8").

   I'll see how to tackle this problem.

   Thank you All!

       masrolsumairi

1. 
   davcefai | Nov 25, 2009 11:49pm | #6

   Possible solutions to your problem:1. There are drill bits that fit into screwdrivers which take interchangable bits. I believe I have seen them as small as 1/16".2. I have also come across "chuck adapters" made spcefically for your purpose. The ones I have seen are by Rolson - I don't know if you get Rolson tools in your part of the world.