Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 16, 2004 02:16am | #1

   Look at the project to see if you can do the glue up in stages or sub-assemblies. Also, go through a complete dryfit, including clamping a couple of times. This will identify potential problems, allow you to get the clamps pre-set and familierize you with the steps.

2. 
   AlbionWood | Feb 16, 2004 10:03pm | #2

   Here are the ways I dealt with that:

   1.  Thickness everything beforehand, and use biscuits to align the parts, so no need for cauls.

   2. Use PU glue and don't worry about squeeze-out; you just pop it off after it's cured.  I think you can do this with PVA glue as well.  There was a FWW article recently with some other ways of dealing with this; I use the masking tape method a lot for M&T joints.  Also if you are finishing with oil, you can prefinish before assembly and the glue won't stick.

   Only remaining problem for me is, the PU glue I've been using lately (Franklin) starts reacting pretty quickly, so I have to get the pieces together within a few minutes.  But I can glue up 4 or even 5 pieces in a panel with no real problem.  I use square aluminum bar clamps or Bessey K-bodies, lay them out and lay out all the pieces for the panel, adjust the clamps to fit the assembly, then just stick the edges together one after another and tighten the screws.

   Like the others said, dry-fit everything first, doing a practice run so you know exactly the sequence of operations.  Just like everything else, practice helps.

   "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler."  A. Einstein

   http://www.albionworks.net

1. 
   Buzzsaw | Feb 17, 2004 02:40am | #3

   Thanks for all the good information AlbionWood...Regards,

   Buzzsaw

2. 
   PlaneWood | Feb 17, 2004 02:22pm | #5

   What is PU glue?

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 17, 2004 04:01pm | #7

   Polyurethane?

2. 
   AlbionWood | Feb 17, 2004 07:37pm | #9

   PU = Polyurethane

   I switched to PU glues a couple of years ago.  PVA glue wasn't working very well here - too cold and too humid.  PU works great for me, although I don't think it's quite as strong as PVA.  Would love to hear other folks' opinions about that.

   Oh, and ros = ROS = random orbit sander.  I almost never use a belt sander on a panel glue-up any more.  After paring off the squeeze-out (of which there is a LOT with PU glue because it foams), I flatten with the drum sander at 120 grit and then ROS to 180.

   Using the biscuits helps align the parts so there is very little offset at the joints, speeding up the flatttening process.  Real splines would probably be even better.  I'll do almost anything to reduce sander time."Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler."  A. Einstein

   http://www.albionworks.net

1. 
   PlaneWood | Feb 17, 2004 09:19pm | #14

   OH!  I thought maybe it was a stinky glue!

   The only thing I use Polyurethane glue for is to glue bricks together for the wife's flowerbeds.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

   Edited 2/17/2004 1:21:50 PM ET by PlaneWood

3. 
   terryb | Feb 17, 2004 04:59am | #4

   I used to use cauls and make a real meal out of it but it's easier & quicker now. First of all I use a couple of lifts as described in Jim Tolpin's 'working at woodworking'. That gets all the pieces up off the bench so's you can get clamps on without a hassle. I joint and thickness the wood ahead of time - make sure your edges are 90 degrees - close don't count. I set the boards on the lift the way in the order I want them, then all except the back one get stood on edge. I squirt a bead of titebond II along each edge that's sticking up then starting with the one furthest back, lay it down, rub its edge back and forth a bit on the board that got no glue. Then do the same with the other boards 'til they're all laying down. The rubbing back and forth spreads the glue. Now I put a clamp across the middle of the boards tightening gradually as I make sure  the middles are in a line (no protruding edges). Then I work outward one side at a time and add clamps making sure there are no protruding edges where I'm clamping. I alternate clamps top and bottom. Once all the clamps are on, I make sure the whole assembly is laying flat on both lifts. If it is, I clean up the glue squeezout and I'm done. If not, I'll adjust clamps or put in a wedge between a clamp and the board but usually it's flat. Don't overtighten the clamps - that'll mess things up. I hope this doesn't sound too complicated - it's easier to do than explain. With practice a couple of minutes is all it takes. After the glue is dry - at least a day - I run a belt sander over it to get the edges right on and finish up with a ros. Hope this is of some help.

1. 
   Buzzsaw | Feb 17, 2004 03:35pm | #6

   Thanks Terry,

     You say "I run a belt sander over it to get the edges right on and finish up with a ros."

   What is ros?   Thanks...

   Regards,

   Buzzsaw

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 17, 2004 07:31pm | #8

   ros=random orbital sanderforestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   Buzzsaw | Feb 17, 2004 07:46pm | #10

   Thank You  Forestgirl,

     And I have one and love it.  I've got to learn these acronyms... Hey Forsestgirl, while I'm writing to you, I have just finished a couple of end table tops and I used 1X6 maple (4 boards glued together)  from HD for the glue up.  Now that I have completed the tops (sanded and routered the edges), but haven't stained them yet, I am a little concerned that the thickness (basically 3/4") isn't thick enough, more lookwise than strength.  So I'm thinking of getting some maple 1X3 strips for under the table tops that will make a frame on the bottom. It will probably add some strength and, obviously, some height.  I was thinking of simply gluing the maple strips to the table tops I have just completed.  Does this make sense? The crappy MDF-veneered existing table tops that I am replacing are about 1 1/4" thick so I guess I'm trying to get the closes thing to that thickness.  I'd appreciate your opinion.. Thanks...Regards,

   Buzzsaw

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 17, 2004 09:08pm | #12

   Buzz, I think you're gonna need some advice from someone more experienced with joinery.  If you have those 1x3 strips going around the bottom edge of the glued-up 1x6"s you're likely to have some movement problems I'd think -- you'd have cross-grain glued to long-grain, a tricky situation.

   You might want to start a thread in the Joinery section "Joining trim to tabletop" or something like that.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

2. 
   Buzzsaw | Feb 17, 2004 09:16pm | #13

   Thanks Forest.  Good point.  I may just stick with the 3/4" tops as they will be strong enough and I won't have that concern.  I'm looking forward to getting a planer and jointer as then I will be able to mill to my preferred thickness rather than having to count on what I find at HD or Lowes.  In time I will have all of my toys but I'll make do with what I have for the time being... Any recommendations on a fairly reasonable planer, jointer? I don't want to break the bank but I would like them to last...Regards,

   Buzzsaw

3. 
   forestgirl | Feb 17, 2004 10:06pm | #15

   "Any recommendations on a fairly reasonable planer, jointer?"  Depending on your specific budget.  Planers:  Delta 12.5" for economy; if you have more like $450 to spend, the new DeWalt 2-speed, 3-knife planer (13" I think) .  Jointer: Yorkcraft 6" for savings.  Jet or Delta 6" if you want a more mainstream company.  Best Bet -- spring for the Grizzly 8" jointer and don't look back. forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

4. 
   Buzzsaw | Feb 17, 2004 10:19pm | #16

   Thank you, I will research these...Regards,

   Buzzsaw

5. 
   wrudiger | Feb 18, 2004 07:29am | #17

   Either here or on Breaktime I saw a comment about a certain bad part in the DW 13" planers causing a whole bunch to go in for repairs; they are all sitting waiting on the part...

   I have the Delta 2-speed and it's been good to me, but I don't have a whole lot of hours on it yet.  I've heard good things about the Ridgid as well.  This topic probably bears more research before you buy.

   Agree 100% on the Grizzly G0500 8" jointer!

2. 
   terryb | Feb 17, 2004 09:01pm | #11

   Sorry. random orbit sander