Replies

1. 
   roc | Jun 27, 2009 04:57am | #1

   >available on the open market

   I get all my stuff black market . . . so . . . guess I can't help.

   Never mind

   : )

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

2. 
   levelone | Jun 27, 2009 07:05am | #2

   Formica sells a "seam fill kit" for their solid surface product, colored to match.  I think they sell clear as well.  It is a two-part acrylic resin.  I wish I could help you more.

3. 
   USANigel | Jun 28, 2009 03:53am | #3

   I've used clear two part epoxy and its holding up in a shower with dayly use. 6 years on!

   Clamp well and use a thin layer and clean off all marks and writing! It will show!

4. 
   davcefai | Jun 28, 2009 02:49pm | #4

   I would suggest trying epoxy. You can colour it to match.

   What I would try is to make a test joint let it set for double the recommended cure time and then test the joint strength. (pull, twist, tap with a hammer). If it holds now then it will hold for a long time but if the joint is at all weak it will separate very early, even in static conditions. YMMV.

5. 
   Spalted | Jun 28, 2009 03:35pm | #5

   Some tips from a shop monkey that makes countertops from the stuff:

   Increase the glue surface. In some instances we use a router bit that makes the flat butt edge a wavy butt edge and the other edge gets the same interlocking treatment. You could do it with any two matching router bits (think rail and stile). We commonly use butt joints with the proprietary acrylic resin glue sold with the product but if you use any other glue then I would advise a larger gluing surface.

   Clean the joint well with alcohol. be sure there is no pencil or other marks or writing on the joint it WILL show. The alcohol removes the grease from contact with your fingers.

   Be sure the piece is well supported. When making a countertop with a drop edge on the front, we back it with a piece of plywood or mdf siliconed in place. I wouldn't use mdf if you can avoid it, and depending on the size of the window you may not need it. Be sure that during installation you support adequately with shims.

   WEAR A RESPIRATOR while sanding this stuff. The dust is hard and sharp (think silicosis).

   All that said, others suggestions about two part epoxy and colorant, as well as making a test joint are excellent advise.

   Good luck!

1. 
   brownman | Jun 29, 2009 05:08am | #6

   Thanks to all for the gluing and safety advise, when working with solid surface. I was originally thinking that I would use the two part epoxy, since the seam fill kit is expensive considering I only need a little. The two bathroom windows are only a few feet wide and less than a foot tall.