Replies

1. 
   frenchy | Apr 12, 2009 03:39pm | #1

   what type of screws?  plated screws or steel screws will decay quickly due to the tannins in white oak which attack the steel and cause it to rust that rust in turn causes the white oak to rot and it will quickly fall apart.

     What type of glue?  tite bond 111 for example is pretty good in outdoor weather but if it's something like Gurilla glue it's a very weak glue to start with and expsoure to weather will put stress on it..

      Finally the purpose of lag bolts (hopefully stainless steel or silcone bronze)   is to provide additional strength over and above that which small wood screws do.  To gain that full capabaility  proper installation techniques must be followed.. that is first the counter bore hole must be drilled if you intend to cover the head of the bolt and not leave it exposed.. then a hole equal in length and diameter to the shank of the screw drilled followed by the proper pilot hole for the threads..   Follow that up with a good thread lubricant..

1. 
   Zabo2 | Apr 12, 2009 06:48pm | #2

   I have been making adirondack chairs for some time.  I use mostly treated pine or cypress, never tried white oak but would like to if I could find a good source in South Louisiana. I've always used titebond II and plain deck screws and have never experienced a failure. Some of my chairs are over 12 years old and seem to be ok. I don't think you can find an enviorment much harder on exterior furniture than here in South LA. Now I understand that uncoated steel will have a reaction to the white oak but I don't see why stainless or coated deck screws would have a problem however as I said before I haven't used white oak for exterior furniture but IMHO your titebond II or III should work fine.

   ZABO

1. 
   ecdoc | Apr 13, 2009 02:43pm | #6

   Thanks, but I used polyurethane glue. Will it fail if the joints are not reinforced with stainless steel bolts &/or screws?

2. 
   ecdoc | Apr 13, 2009 02:41pm | #5

   Thanks. I can extract the galvanized screws and rely on the Elmer's Polurethane glue to hold it together. But, that is the question. Will the polyuethane glue fail?

1. 
   frenchy | Apr 14, 2009 11:12am | #15

   Well it's about 1/2 as strong as titebond 111

1. 
   Zabo2 | Apr 14, 2009 06:11pm | #16

   Keep her we don't want her we have enough trouble with a presidential wannabe here in Louisiana. By the way can you see Russia from your front porch???

   ZABO

2. 
   ecdoc | Apr 16, 2009 02:41am | #17

   Even factoring the exposure to water? I have read the articles highlighting the supeiror strength of Tightbond III over Polurethane glues but those tests did not include exposure to water--at least the ones I saw.

   And the larger question remains--will the polyurethane bond be adequate for the chair without reinforcing the joints with bolts?

1. 
   saschafer | Apr 16, 2009 04:09am | #18

   A good (i.e., gap free) polyurethane-glued joint should be plenty strong enough. But the parts really do need to be perfectly mated, because the gap-filling strength of polyurethane glue is abysmal.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 16, 2009 05:55pm | #19

   Titebond III meets ANSI specs for a Type 1 Waterproof adhesive. The tests involve repeated soakings in boiling water. Gorilla only "claims" that their adhesive meets the spec but does not recommend that their adhesive be used in long term, totally submerged applications.Howie.........

3. 
   ecdoc | Apr 17, 2009 05:52am | #20

   Damn--I should have stayed with Tightbond III. It is what I use for all of my other projects. I didn't realize it was that waterproof.

2. 
   mrbird90 | Apr 12, 2009 10:28pm | #3

   I've made 50 -60 adirondack  chairs over the years from cedar, cypress and mahogany and I have used Titebond lll with stainless steel screws and have had no joint failures that I have hear about. The early chairs used Titebond II prior to Frankling coming out with their type III

3. 
   sapwood | Apr 13, 2009 07:45am | #4

   Well those other fellows are apparently under the assumption that you are willing to take these chairs apart and re-glue with titebond in lieu of the poly. That seems like a bit of a stretch to assume.

   I don't know about the chairs, but I've got a garden gate going on ten years that was glued with gorilla glue, a poly, and it is holding up just fine. My climate is quite opposite from yours... nevertheless still harsh... Alaska. My adirondack chairs were glued with titebond, probably just plain ol' titebond, not II or III since I don't think they were invented yet... and they are a bit loosy goosy. But that's OK because the drywall screws and carriage bolts keep me from breaking them altogether. A deck chair ought to be a bit loose... makes it more comfy being able to sag along with me.

   My advice... you've glued and screwed these already. See how they hold up and add bolts when the need arises. Until then, keep plenty of ice in your glass. Oh yes, the paint will help a lot to preserve both the wood and the glue joint. Mine are green. Green paint that is.

1. 
   ecdoc | Apr 13, 2009 02:45pm | #7

   Thanks. You are right--I am already past the glue decision. I used Elmer's Polyurethane glue. The question is do the joints need to be reinforced--will the glue fail?

1. 
   Zabo2 | Apr 13, 2009 06:58pm | #8

   I wouldn't remove the screws and bolts. If you using SS I don't see a problem. I can't reply on the poly glue because I've never used it. I was just commenting on what I have used successfully I didn't mean to suggest that you take the chairs apart. Just out of curiosity why would you want to remove the hardware?

   ZABO

   Edited 4/13/2009 12:02 pm ET by Zabo2

1. 
   ecdoc | Apr 14, 2009 01:38am | #12

   Now that the glue has cured, I would consider removing the screws if they accelerate wood deterioration, as some of the comments seem to indicate. Then, the question is whether I need to add stainless steel bolts to reinforve the main joints, or will the polyurethane glue be sufficient.

2. 
   sapwood | Apr 13, 2009 08:04pm | #10

   Now in this post you are not mentioning the screws. What's up?If I were in your shoes and I'd used the poly glue and screws then I'd paint those puppies, set them out on the deck, get a drink and a bowl of snacks and simply be at peace with my chair.But unfortunately I'm not in your shoes. Another half inch of snow fell last night. My chairs are still buried in it and a cold one outside just isn't all that inviting yet. But summer will come. (for a couple of days in June at least)

1. 
   danmart | Apr 14, 2009 01:37am | #11

   Ok Sapwood

   Where are you? Can't tell from your profile but snow?

1. 
   sapwood | Apr 14, 2009 02:54am | #14

   Sarah Palin is my governor. The snow didn't stick around for long.. the fresh stuff that is. We're still waiting for the winter accumulation to go. Actually, it'd be great if the governor went also.

2. 
   ecdoc | Apr 14, 2009 01:41am | #13

   You make some good points...there is something to be said for keeping it simple. Hopefully the chair won't collapse while I am sipping my beverage. Thanks.

4. 
   traveller2 | Apr 13, 2009 07:10pm | #9

   I've built on the order of 200+ adirondack chairs ( used to do it as a side business). I never used any glue only silicone bronze boat screws. As far as I know none have ever failed or fallen apart.