Replies

1. 
   Hempstalk | Aug 06, 2002 08:26pm | #1

   PJ.  Tightbond won't work for Teak.  The oils in teak and other woods like Cocobolo and other Rosewoods prevent the glue from making a good bond.  There are specific epoxies made for the gluing of Teak and other oily woods.  I think a poly glue like Gorilla glue would work as well.

2. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 06, 2002 08:47pm | #2

   Woodcrafters Supply has a good 2 part clear epoxy that works well for the waxy woods.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

1. 
   Elcoholic | Aug 06, 2002 11:26pm | #3

   Poly, epoxy, plastic resin, resorcinol glue will all work just fine.  One trick most folks seem to use is to wipe the surfaces to be glued with acetone and let it flash-off right before putting on the glue.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   Glendo | Aug 07, 2002 08:04am | #4

   Howdy,

   I've had good results polyurathane glue on oily exotics.

   The tan color blends in well also

   Good luck.

1. 
   DonStephan | Aug 08, 2002 02:53am | #5

   Last year I assembled some teak outdoor furniture for a long time friend. The kit came with the standard two-syringe epoxy (duro brand?). No problems to date.

3. 
   Splintie | Aug 08, 2002 07:18pm | #6

   I'll ditto Glendo's remarks. When i've used epoxy on teak, i found the glue line to be somewhat darker and more visible than with poly glues, where the color or the glue is virtually the same as the teak. I also like the expansive qualities of the poly glue bec teak is so porous and poly seems to grab into the wood better than the staid epoxy that just sits there and hardens.

   In Breaktime, a master carpenter named Ed Williams built a fabulous curved teak bench for an outdoor pool area and had great success using poly glue on it, laminated even. You absolutely must leave it clamped for a good long time, say 24 hours. Taking it out of the clamps prematurely, even though it seems cured, means you'll most likely get to repeat the process.

1. 
   PhilipOrr | Aug 13, 2002 10:37am | #7

   Thanks for all the sound advice. I tried a couple of scrap pieces with Titebond and cascamite glues but they did not produce a strong enough bond even with cleaning the surfaces with acetone. Will try gorrila poly glue next.

   Again thanks for good the good advice which is always given.

   Philip.

1. 
   AJinNZ | Aug 13, 2002 12:12pm | #8

   Splintie mentioned leaving the clamps on for a good long while. No matter what i glue up I always leave the clamps on for 24 hours. Maybe I'm just into overkill, but the thought of a failure....... 

   Wood Hoon

2. 
   Elcoholic | Aug 13, 2002 10:46pm | #9

   FWIW poly has a relatively short shelf life once you open it so buy small.  I've had just as good results with Excel and PL poly glues and they're a lot cheaper than Gorrilla.  You can even get PL at the big orange box.  Don't forget poly only goes on one side of the joint and wet the otherside with a damp rag.  It reacts to moisture.  Others may disagree but I make no attempt to clean up poly squeeze out untils its fully cured (24 hours).  The foam is really easy to scrape off.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

   Edited 8/13/2002 3:48:35 PM ET by ELCOHOLIC

1. 
   Ken10thumbs | Aug 14, 2002 04:14am | #10

   General question about poly glue.  I bought a small bottle to experiment with and glued two sets of test blocks (actually scrap "sticks") long grain to long grain.  One was with titebond I, the other with the Poly (also the Franklin product). I clamped as directed (wetting one side, etc.)  After about four hours the titebond product was, more or less, unbreakable while the poly product failed without any real effort.  I have since tried the poly and allowed it to cure for 24 hours before touching the assembly.  I didn't repeat the test but have lost some confidence in poly glues, am I just impatient??

   Edited 8/13/2002 9:19:16 PM ET by Ken

1. 
   Elcoholic | Aug 15, 2002 12:19am | #11

   In a word yes.  Give it 24 hours or at least overnight to cure.

   A few years ago a guy wanted a nice redwood gate for his driveway, it was (2) 4' wide x 6' high leaves.  He also wanted a standard deadbolt lock instead of the usual gravity latch.  I made perimeter frames out of 2 x 6 conheart with a 2x6 diagonal and faced them with #1 clear 1x6 T&G attached with 1 deck screw at the horizontals and 1 at the diagonal.  The amazing thing is that the joints are done w/ 4 #20 biscuits and poly.  No other fasteners, plates, gate casters, or turnbuckles.  I went back after a week to snug-up the thru-bolts on the 12" strap hinges and haven't been back since.  That deadbolt wouldn't lineup for long if there was any sag in the gate.  that sold me on poly and biscuits.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

2. 
   Splintie | Aug 15, 2002 09:45am | #12

   FWIW poly has a relatively short shelf life once you open it so buy small

   I posted this caveat a couple years ago when i began using poly in earnest and some saint told me to store it in the freezer between uses. I've since discovered that keeping it in the fridge works just as well for a few weeks and it's not so terrifying to stick it under my armpit to heat it up again. My complaint these days is that i can't buy it in larger (read: economy-size) containers!

1. 
   Elcoholic | Aug 15, 2002 11:22pm | #13

   Makes sense since refers are pretty dry inside.  Out of the freezer and under the armpit sounds pretty brutal.  I've found PL to be pretty thick and hard to squeeze out even at room temp so I put it in a tub of warm water.  Gorilla and Excel seem to be thinner.  The Titebond poly seemed to have the shortest shelf life of all but the best container.  Re: on larger containers - I have a friend who's a GC that specializes in playgrounds and they use poly glue to attach the rubber mats to the asphalt that go below jungle gyms, etc.  He gave me a gallon but I haven't experimented with it yet to see if this 'poly' works for wood.  I'll get you the mfr's name if you want to check it out.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne