Replies

1. 
   sawdustmaker | May 24, 2004 04:54am | #1

   Are you able to post a photograph? It is possible you can run a screw up from the bottom to reinforce the glue.

1. 
   Dave45 | May 24, 2004 07:25am | #4

   Assuming the pieces still fit together, glue the foot back on with carpenters glue.  When it's dry (and fairly stable) drill a dowel hole from the bottom that goes at least an inch (more is better) past the break then glue in a dowel.  I would also 'score' the dowel so glue can squeeze out when it's inserted.

   If you try to drill matching holes in the foot and leg, it's almost certain that they won't match and then you have a real problem. - lol

   When everything is dry, touch up the break area with a matching filler or stain.

2. 
   forestgirl | May 24, 2004 07:09am | #2

   In my admitedly novice opinion, you do not want to use a screw to reinforce the glue.  A better technique is to drill out matching holes for a dowel to run from the foot-part to the leg-part to reinforce the glue.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   sawdustmaker | May 24, 2004 07:43pm | #6

   I stand corrected on the screw issue. Even though it wasn't my question, I learned something. Thanks all.

1. 
   jackplane | May 25, 2004 06:44pm | #7

   In some cases, your idea has merit. I see two issues here; one is that this is or could be a valuable antique. Second, driving a screw from underneath through end-grain applies tension and causes the wood fibers to splay outwards which makes for a weak joint.

     But many times a screw can be used in certain repairs.Not trying to beat a horse, just my two cents.

3. 
   creekwood | May 24, 2004 07:15am | #3

   I agree with forestgirl, no screws. Is it possible to glue right on the break?

4. 
   joinerswork | May 24, 2004 04:36pm | #5

   Dave,

   If the secretary is an antique, you may be doing auntie a disservice by repairing it without a little thought first.  A period antique should be glued with hide glue so as to be easily reversible, should that become necessary.  Any added hardware, nails screws, mending plates, or dowels are probably not necessary, and often only further weaken the break.

   Most often, a cabriole leg will break along the grain, near the top of the leg, at the mortise with the apron, or running from the top of the knee to a point somewhere under the return.  If you have all the pieces, and take the time to align them EXACTLY the way they were before they broke apart, and devise a way to clamp them together till the glue sets up, you will have a good repair that should be as strong as before. (Remember though, that wasn't strong enough to be dragged across the floor!!)  A cabriole leg is not always simple thing to put back together, and if this is a period antique, it will be worth auntie's while to have a professional conserve it , rather than run the risk of detracting from what may be a quite valuable piece.

   If this is, on the other hand, a relatively modern factory made desk, you could use a modern glue to make the repair; titebond, or carpenter's glue will work fine.  Keep in mind that if you don't get it right, it will be hard to get rid of the dried glue for a do-over.  It is important to make curved blocks, or some other arrangement to put the clamp pressure squarely across the break, to push the fracture together, and prevent slipping and misalignment.

   Finally, (Iknow this is long), if the break is across the grain, at the ankle, it may be necessary to glue the foot back on, aligning all the splinters, and then drill thru the break from the bottom of the foot for a dowel.  Use a bit diameter about 1/2 to 3/4 the dia of the ankle, and use the same wood for the dowel as the leg is made of. (Turn it on a lathe.) Span the break as far as you can, 2-3" at least. This won't be quite as strong as before, but in my experience is about the best that can be done.  A steel rod instead of a dowel may be substituted, but usually I only use steel in cases where the size of the broken member is too small to allow a wood dowel sufficient strength to be usable.

   Regards,

   Ray