Replies

1. 
   OldMan | Aug 29, 2006 09:56pm | #1

   I believe you can use a oil-based poly on top of it. Take a scrap piece and test first though. Make sure the tung oil is fully dry before applying the poly.

2. 
   Rich14 | Aug 29, 2006 10:07pm | #2

   Guy,

   Despite its name, Minwax Tung Oil Finish probably has no tung oil, although its formaula is proprietary, it is a mixture mostly of linseed oil, a varnish and a petroleum distillate solvent (mineral spirits), that is: a typical oil/varnish finish.

   It may look much more glossy on some woods than others. For instance, on paduak, it can result in quite a nice sheen. What wood are you finishing?

   In any case, following up the Minwax with a gloss varnish finish will certainly result in a higher gloss to the finished surface. Assuming you want to maintain the "close-to-the-wood look of the original finish, a rubbing varnish preparation made by diluting any oil-based varnish with an equal amount of mineral spirits or naphtha will give a thin-film finish with much more gloss than the Minwax product alone. Of course you can build the varnish film(s) as many applications as you want.

   Rich

3. 
   user-192253 | Aug 30, 2006 12:00am | #3

   Thanks, Rich and Oldman,
   Thanks for your input regarding my question. BYW I'm using Hickory for the clock. You know, "Hickory, Dickory, Dock, some idiot's building a clock."

   
   

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   Edited 8/29/2006 5:02 pm ET by Guy Gadois

1. 
   Rich14 | Aug 30, 2006 12:32am | #4

   Guy,

   I work so much with tropical hardwoods that I sometimes forget there are such woods as hickory. I love maple, so I'm not completely unfamiliar with domestic woods, but aside from using hickory for ax handles, I didn't think people used it to build anything! Please don't take offense, but no wonder you didn't find the Minwax attractive on that wood.

   I once walked into a kitchen that had hickory cabinets and thought the owner was crazy for having requested them. I couldn't believe how ugly they were. Just awful.

   Oh, well. My (not necessarily valuable) 2 centavos.

   Rich

1. 
   user-192253 | Aug 30, 2006 12:40am | #5

   Thanks, Rich,I agree, if I were to build another clock, I would definitely choose another wood. At the start of the project, it just seemed appropriate to use Hickory (dickory)for a clock! Some of the gears have 64 teeth and the Hickory appears strong enough that I won't have to worry about breaking teeth. Maybe I'll just paint it green.Regards, Guy

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Sep 04, 2006 06:31am | #6

   Guy, I have put Minwax wipe-on polyurethane over tung oil & tung oil varnish. It works fine. Poly thinned as someone else described will work as well as the Minwax product since that is about what Minwax Poly is anyway. In fact, you should get good results with any oil-based polyurethane over the tung oil. Abraid it first.Cadiddlehopper

1. 
   JayS | Sep 04, 2006 06:40pm | #7

   Shellac is compatible with almost any finish including oil. It will adhere fine and you can rub it our to whatever gloss you like.

   Jay S.