Not too long ago, the New Yankee Workshop had a show where he was building a piece with cope and stick router bits, and he also demonstrated a trick on how to rearrange the bearings and cutter heads of the router bits to make glass panel doors. Any idea what show number this was and the title of the piece he built, or can someone point me to an article or tutorial for this?
Thanks for the help,
Brian
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I don't know about that one, but here's the set I have and there is a DVD that shows you what you need. You have a cope, stick and back cutter for the slot. I think the dvd is $15. I bought my set at a wood show and think I got it for free.
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=03003
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DVD2
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Yes - I'm aware of the cutter sets specifically for the doors, however Norm demonstrated on that show a trick to rearrange the cutter heads of one of the bits to make the doors, so another set would not be needed.
It's fairly simple depending on what you have for standard cope and bead bits. Not all can be rearranged safely. Typically you have a two bit set. On the cope bit, you have the cope cutter, a spacer bearing and a slot cutter. On the bead bit, you have the bead cutter, a slotting bit and a bearing, both are in that order. Take the slot cutter off the cope bit and put it on the bead bit in place of the bearing. Put the two bearings on the cope bit. Essentially it makes the joint a lap joint rather than T&G and cuts a rabbet for the glass. You will need to make a glass stop to hold the glass. The safety issue is whether there is enough thread on the post for two bearings stacked up. If your bit set has spacer washers, make sure you make a note of how they go so you can put them back in the same place when you put the bits back in the T&G configuration.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Can I run these modified setups at regular speed on the table or do I have to run a slower speed similar to the raised panel bits?
In most cases, speed is more of a factor of the diameter of the bit. You haven't changed that with the reconfiguration but you have reduced the cutting profile on one and increased it on the other. I usually adjust my speed according to the feel of the cut, so to speak. I seldom cut to full depth on one pass. I make two, three or more incremental cuts to get to the full profile. This reduces the strain on both the bit and the work. Again, this is adjusted to the material and the quality of the cut. I don't have a mental note of what speed I used, the last time I made glass doors. More than likely, I'm down one or two clicks from top speed on my large PC. I typically use the lowest speed I can in the router table, tempered by the results, feel and sound. Not very scientific but you can tell if all the factors are harmonizing. Start with the middle speed and try one up or down. It's obvious to me when you have it right. With some bits, dovetail for instance, you can't make incremental cuts. I'll make a few practice cuts but with small bits, the speed is usually at the top. With a reconfigured bead bit, I try to balance the cutters like you would with a dado stack.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
It is really not advisable to change around cutters on a matched rail and stile set for several reasons. In addition to what Hammer said, the diameter of the slot cutters used should be different (if the set is made correctly) to make the groove of the stile slightly deeper than the tenon length. If you stack the two together they will not cut the same depth. Also, shims are used to make the fit of the joint correct and you would have to use extreme care to be sure you reassembled them correctly. Best to get a bit set that is made for the job.
Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
Charles,
What is the difference in the diameters of the two slot cutters and is it meaningful enough to impact the results?
If I recall correctly, for Freud R&S bits the difference in diameter of the two slot cutters is 0.016" for a difference in depth of cut of 0.008".
Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled