This is definitely a popular topic…. Dug a bit through the forum, but didn’t see an answer to this problem. Am ready to finish a mission-style bookcase and have done quite a few sample boards. The ones that were ammonia-fumed came out quite nicely, but I’m concerned about getting an even color on a piece this large and went with Jeff Jewitt’s article http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/missionoak.shtml
I’m using Moser’s Light Fumed Oak aniline dye in alcohol. As the pictures show, the fumed sample turned out a nice red-orange but the dyed sample has blotches and stains.
Any ideas as to what might have happened and how to avoid the problem?
Thanks,
Replies
Oak finish
You don't mention your method of application but I suspect you are wiping it on. This could be your problem as alcohol flashes off very fast, therefore not allowing much time for correcting. Water as a solvent would be better, but then you would have to wet and presand the entire piece to avoid raising the grain. (Spraying is the best way to apply a dye, especially with an alcohol solvent.)
With that said, it begs the question, Why don't you fume it. This is the traditional method for this style and it gives you the color you want with few problems. Applying due diligence in the selection of wood for grain and color, particularly for a large project is just as important as precise cuts and exacting joinery. Sure there will be some slight variations in color, however if objectionable, these can be blended in with a light application of your dye in selective areas.
If you have large variations in color, a blanket application of a stain will probably not hide it any better than the fuming, thus some blending will be needed anyway. I have never tried it, as I have a small HVLP gun, but an inexpensive airbrush might work for this purpose.
Good Luck
Rob
fumed oak
Thanks for your feedback. I will try spraying a sample or two and see how that comes out. I was very careful with would selection. That's not my concern. I was looking for an alternative to fuming since I read it was difficult to get an even coloration over the piece just because the ammonia would be weaker farther away from the source. I now plan on setting out a number of saucers with ammonia in different spots in the fuming tent.
Thanks again for your response.
Being under a tent
I would think the air would be quickly saturated with ammonia fumes, assuming you are using the industrial quality ammonia available from drafting supply stores. Anyway, a small battery powered fan left inside would keep things stirred up a bit.
Again, good luck, post some pictures here when you are done.
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