Replies

1. 
   John_D | Jan 18, 2006 12:34am | #1

   I'm making mine 28" square with a drawer.  3/4" maple ply for the box, just standard rabbeted construction, but optimizing so the case top can handle the load (glue blocks in upper corners, sides butted to support the top).  3/4" back adds some support too.  Don't forget that the washer itself has feet (I'm adding a pair of vertical front-to-back ribs under the dryer feet).  Maybe then you could get away with 1/2" material, but I'm going with 3/4".

   I've got a 28w x 9h x 28d box.  Sides have edge banding on front edges.  Applying 1 1/4" high maple molding to keep dryer from vibrating off top, also covers edges of top ply.  Applied max 2" skirt covers bottom edges, looks like wide legs.  Leveling screws in 4 corners are real legs.  Two ribs 1" in from left and right edges are grooved into top and bottom to add support for dryer weight, hole cut for leg adjust access.  Drawer is 24" w x 7" h x 26" d, simple 1/2" ply box.  Two slides attached to box bottom.  Drawer front is 3/4" maple ply, edge banded, shaped to flush fit in front.

   That's my plan, anyway.  I'll be watching this thread too, thanks for asking this.

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
1. 
   jkargas | Jan 18, 2006 07:26pm | #2

   What I'm thinking I may do is similar to what you have just described.  I'm planning on making mine 12" high though.  Instead of using glue blocks help support the weight of the washer/dryer, I think I may put a 2 x 12 on edge, directly under the legs.  I figured that way, all the weight would be supported by the 2 x 12 and I wouldn't have to worry about the top warping or sagging at all.  I would rather not have the whole box come crashing down some day.  What can I say... I overbuild.  I haven't quite figured out what I'm going to do for moisture protection yet though.  I have noticed that if you open the doors right after the load is done, water drips from the door a little.  I don't know if it would really be that big of a deal, but...

   Thanks for your input though.

1. 
   John_D | Jan 18, 2006 10:27pm | #3

   Instead of using glue blocks help support the weight of the washer/dryer, I think I may put a 2 x 12 on edge, directly under the legs.

   I probably wrote imprecisely.  The weight in my design is supported by the side being butted under the top, and a 3/4" ply rib under the dryer feet set into 3/16" grooves.  The glue blocks are primarily to resist racking.

   Not sure my input's worth much, I'm looking for help as much as you are!  :)My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

2. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 19, 2006 03:50am | #4

   2X4's, 3/4 ply and some nice enamel paint?