Hey Y’all. How’s it where ur at. Here in N.E. Ga. it’s been a beautiful day. Got some work done in the shop. I read a formula for cutting out picture frames somewhere but now I can’t find it. It involved subtracting twice the rabbit for the glass and adding two times the total frame width or somethin like that. I’ve only got enuf walnut to make two frames. Can’t afford to miss calculate. If anyone knows the formula could you post it pls. Also where do I go to change my e-addy. I’ve changed i-net providers and therefor have a new i-addy. Thanks in advance for the help. Y’all have a merry Christmas and a blessed New Year. Richard
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This is my first response on Knots, so I hope what I have to tell you will all get entered properly. Here goes:
Measure the length and width of the item you want to frame, including any mats. Be sure to add the width of the rabbet; the rabbet will hide the edges of the item, so be sure to allow for that. Most rabbets are cut ~ 1/4" wide.
Here's the part you forgot: Add the length and width, including the rabbet allowances. These are known as the rabbet dimensions. Multiply by 2. Add eight times ( 8 x ) the width of the moulding. (This allows for the miter cut losses.) the width of the moulding is measured by looking down from the top side of the finished moulding; it is the maximum width, i.e., wider than the bottom side by the width of the rabbet.
Example: You have an 8 x 10 item, EXCLUDING the rabbets. Add 1/4" for rabbet on each dimension. The rabbet dimension is 8-1/4 x 10-1/4" Adding these two = 18-1/2. Multiplying by 2 = 37". Now, assume your moulding is 1-1/2" wide, you multiply that width by 8: 8 x 1-1/2" = 12" which is your miter allowance. Adding 12 + 37 = 49" That is the length of moulding required for your frame.
I suggest both gluing and nailing (with small brads) your corners. If your moulding is wide and heavy, use finishing nails that will be appropriate for the size of the moulding. I drill small holes prior to nailing to minimize the chances of splitting. Be careful not to drill through the top or side of the moulding!! I clamp mine in corner vises for very tight joints, but if you don't have them, you can probably get by without them. When you nail your first two corners, be sure that the long sides will be parallel when you nail the last two corners - otherwise you will not have a completed rectangle! You will have wasted your moulding. I learned that the hard way years ago!! Suggest that you apply the brads from what will be the top and bottom sides only; that way the finished frame will not have nail holes showing on the side. Fill the nail holes after setting them.
Good luck!
Tom, if I understand exactly what you're saying, I think you've got it just backwards. The rabbit in effect reduces the width of the molding by the width of the rabbit itself. If I misunderstood what you typed please forgive. Here's a link to help explain what I mean.
http://www2.fwi.com/~krumy/picture/measuring/molding.html
Steve K
Edited 12/23/2002 5:45:28 PM ET by krumy
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