Dear All,
Usually I cut “phenolic or mica” for laminating to the exact measurement of the the stock to be laminated. Any misalignment during gluing, I used to trim it using very fine file followed by 320 grid sandpaper. Sometimes, I got to trim the wood stock it self, in which case I had my finished workpiece lesser by 1/16″ to 1/8″ of the original size.
I started using router recently only and mostly for making raised panel. I’m thinking of cutting the phenolic sheet extra Length & Width by 1/8″ or so for easy gluing.
Can I flush trim “phenolic laminate” – (normally known as “Formica” in my country), using general pattern/flush trim router bit ? Do I need a special bit for cutting phenolic or Formica ? I am afraid I may spoil the only one flush trim bit I own.
You know, D.I.Y is not popular in my country, so is not easy to find router bit.
In fact, I purchased most of my woodworking tools and hardware via Internet. My local tools & hardware retailers used to give me reason for not carrying D.I.Y. stock is they (the stocks) don’t sell – ‘cos no demand for D.I.Y – ‘cos D.I.Y is not popular.
But I think D.I.Y is not popular cos tools & hardware suppliers/retailers do not sell what D.I.Y’s enthusiasts want.
I do know, may be just like “egg and chicken” which one is first.
Thanks.
“….give me a fish, you feed me for the day, teach me how to fish and you feed me for the rest of my life…” – from reader’s digest (many many years ago)…
Edited 3/30/2006 10:55 pm by Masrol
Replies
Flush trim bits work great for trimming laminates. If the bit is carbide, it'll be useful for a long time. You will need to clean the glue off of it when you're done but lacquer thinner or acetone can be used if they're available to you. If they're not, you can let the glue dry and scrape it off. Laminate is abrasive and eventually, the bit will wear but if it has a roller bearing on it, you can expose more of it to have access to a fresh edge.
I like to make the pieces more than 1/8" oversize, though. Not much margin for error if the laminate and substrate come in contact and bond when you don't want them to (which happened to me today). For large sheets, I lay 3/4" PVC pipe on the part receiving the laminate, then place the sheet on top for alignment. Then, remove one piece of pipe so the edge can be bonded and work my way to the other end. I have a J roller for making good contact and working any bubbles out. J rollers are easily available and usually cost about $15.
I don't know where you have bought your router bits before, but there are many websites that sell them for reasonable prices and have a great variety. Eagle America, Penn State, CMT, Freud and others work well.
Hi Highfigh and Desertmaster
Thank you for your prompt reply. Thank you for your elaborative answer. I must try to trim cut the laminate with more confident now.
Actually I bought Ryobi Plunge Router more than a year ago. However, without the router table, I could not perform complicated cutting like panel raising, rails & stiles..etc. I just use the machine for edge trimming and simple edge mouldings.
I started using the machine for panel raising and rail & stiles cutting about 3mths ago. That was when the table that I made was 95% "completed".
It wasn't making the table that flexing my muscle. It just took a couple days. The real problem is finding the hardware etc.etc .. Almost 90% of my woodworking tools & hardware were purchased from on-line suppliers. I purchased the TS from Tool-Net UK, pipe clamps from PeachTree USA, Router bits from MLCS Woodworking, router plate insert from Woodpecker and most of the workbench hardware from Lee Valley.
With the money that I purchased all those woodworking stuff, I think I may not have much space in my house to walk around if I purchase home furniture instead..... But that is not the point. D.I.Y is not really about saving. It is the self- satisfaction that I cannot gain by purchasing the most beautiful furniture.
By the way, I live in Malaysia, hope it answers Garry.
May God bless you and all KNOT members.
Bye
Masrol,
Yes, you can use your regular flush trim bottom bearing bit to trim Formica (plastic laminate), it will work in the same manner as a specialized laminate trimmer bit. But....the glue line will start to wear a slight indention in the carbide edge of the bit fairly quickly at the point where the wood meets the laminate. You will end up with your bit having a slight dip in the edge at one point. If you then use this bit to trim solid wood, it will leave an edge with a visible line in it due to the indentation on the bit caused by the wear. I think it's better to have a bit dedicated to use only for laminate trimming; you can raise and lower the bit in the router to avoid using the worn spot more than once. I checked my Woodworker's Supply catalog, and these bits are only around $10 to $12.
If you have been cutting the underlayment (wood) and laminate to the same size before gluing, you are a lot more brave or accurate than I would try to be. The common practise is to cut the laminate a couple of inches oversize all the way around, apply the contact cement to both surfaces, then lay dowels or spacers a few inches apart on top of the cement on the underlayment, place the laminate on top of the spacers, adjust it so it overhangs on all sides, then take out the spacers one at a time, pressing down on the laminate with a roller so it bonds. Then trim off the laminate edges flush with the router.
Good luck with it. By the way, what country are you in. Gary.
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