floor to ceiling clearance when raising
I am building a free standing cabinet that will have to be raised from a lying position once I get it into the room. It is planed to be 76″ tall. How much additional clearance will I need to raise it?
I am building a free standing cabinet that will have to be raised from a lying position once I get it into the room. It is planed to be 76″ tall. How much additional clearance will I need to raise it?
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Replies
If I understand you correctly:
(assuming a basic rectangular configuration)
cealing clearance= [sqrt(cab height^2 * cab width^2)] - cab height
(^2 means squared)
(sqrt is square root)
good luck,
Steve
Depends on the depth of the cabinet. The diagonal (say - from the base at the rear measured to top of cornice in front) has to clear the ceiling. In tight situations you can often gain some inches by applying the cornice or even the base after it has been set upright.
DR
Using the formula that pertains to right triangles that the length of the hypotenuse is the square root of the sum of first side squared + the sum of the second side squared you can do the following sum if these two lengths apply to the height and the depth..
Cabinet height, 76"
Cabinet depth, 15"
Key the following: 76 X 76 = 5776. Key M+. 15 X 15 = 225. Key M+. Key R-CM = 6001. Hit the square root key on your calculator to get 77.47" This gives the long diagonal of the carcass side.
Similarly,
Cab height, 76
Cab depth, 24
Key in, 76 X 76 = 5776. Key M+. 24 X 24 = 576. Key M+. Key R-CM = 6352. Root it = 79.69. Slainte.
Richard Jones Furniture
thanks for your reply. I had calculated the same as you said and even measured the diagonal. Both measurements were less than the ceiling height so I thought I was safe. Not so. When I raised the cabinet it still hit the ceiling. Any other ideas?
Either one (or more) of your measurments is off or your house is haunted.I once had a tall bookcase to install that I knew would just clear the cieling. It did, but I hadn't considered a cieling light. At least that wasn't difficult to move out of the way. I did another cabinet that wouldn't make the turn into the room. Had to remove a window. Fortunately, it was on the ground floor.
My math was right - my placement of the cabinet was wrong. Using the height and DEPTH measurement in the a2+b2=c2 equation meant that I had to lay the cabinet on its BACK and not on its side like I originally did. Once I did this I was able to raise the cabinet into position. Thanks for your comments.
Provided you have calculated (or measured) the hypotenuse of the triangle correctly from the most far reaching features (i.e. top overhang or leg splay included) then I don't see how it would be possible for it not to work.
If you are looking at the cabinet from the side; picture the right back leg as simply a pivot point that is the center of a large circle, the radius of which is the furthest point from the bottom right corner of that leg.
Did someone lower your ceiling while you were out?
Steve
Meaure the diagonal of the cabinet as that is the longest (or widest) measurement. Compare it to your ceiling height. I built a cabinet (floor to ceiling for our master bath), and I was able to raise it by building the "toe-kick" separately, and also by applying the crown moulding after it was installed. You can do a little cheating at the top and cover it with the moulding.
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