HI Peter, I recently finished 3 beautiful boxes made of Quilted Maple sides and Splated Maple lids. These boxes were truly beautiful until I ruined them with the finish. The first thing I did was to put a coat of watco clear danish oil on the raw wood after sanding up to a 320 grit. I then started to apply a high qulaity german superblonde dewaxed shellac 2lb cut. The application was with a wipe on shellac pad. The first coat went on ok, but as I applied another coat I statred to get what looked like lines and runs. I then decided to go to a brush application due to the size and construction of the boxes. I started to brush on the shellac with high quality Garmercy brushes. The result more runs and lines. I then bought spray shellac out of the can. More problems. Is there anything I can do to salvage the finish of these boxes.
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Replies
JCCT,
Concerning the small lines you are getting in your shellac;
It sounds to me like your pad was too wet and the shellac was piling up around each pass. That's something we've all done, rest assured. That is a technique adjustment for next time so be aware.
It sounds to me like you didn't do any sanding between techniques (pad and brush). This would have helped the situation greatly. Again, just an adjustment in your technique.
The great thing about shellac is it's reverseability. Here's what I do when I want to remove some built up shellac;
Get some industrial paper towels or some soft cotton like tee shirt material. Get a squeeze bottle like a dish detergent bottle (clean of course) and fill it with denatured alcohol. Also have some newspaper or some thin plastic at hand.
Lay the paper towels flat on the surface. If you don't have the industrial type use the regular ones three to four thick. Use your bottle of alcohol to wet them thoroughly, but not dripping down the sides, and BE SURE THEY ARE FLAT (NO AIR BUBBLES). Cover this with newspaper or plastic for about ten minutes.
Check it at least once to see if there are any dry spots in the towels. If so just squirt a little alcohol on it and re cover it.
After about ten minutes simply roll back the paper towels in sections and wipe the surface dry. You now have all the shellac off and you can start again. It is a very simple and non destructive way to remove the shellac. There is no sanding involved so it won't affect the surface of the wood.
When you re apply the shellac;
When I first start on bare wood, I use circles and then move into long figure eights finishing up with long straight lines.
I'll bet you used just straight lines with your pad.
Keep me posted on how you make out.
Peter
Thanks Peter, I will try your removal method. It may be a few days before I get to this, as I am in the middle of another project. I will let you know how I did.
Best Regards
John
Hi Peter your tip about the shellac removal worked really great. However I am not sure I understand your method of reapplying the shellac. Did you mean start with circles, then onto figure eights, then straight lines with the same coat, or with different coats.
Thanks
JCCT.
JCCT,
When I start to "body up" the shellac using a pad, I start by applying it in small circles, say six inches or so.
As I get a body of shellac on the surface I'll start to use long figure 8's to "pull over" the circles and start to straighten them out. I'll finish them up with long straight strokes.
It is actually pretty easy once you get the feel of the shellac under your pad.
If you feel more comfortable using a brush, the first coat lays down very easily. You can apply a second one over it shortly after it is dry.
If you have any ridges at this point let it sit overnight and give it a sanding with 2 or 320 as needed. Be aware that after the surface is sanded the next coat of shellac will "bite" the surface fairly quickly. If you re using a pad, start with a light touch when you start your next application. You are basically waking up the shellac and making the surface active again.
It doesn't take that long to acquire a touch with a pad. It is a touch and you should practice it a few times on some sample boards. As your pad starts to discharge and dry out you'll feel a slight pull under your hand. This is when things are going well. If your hand starts to "skip" your pad is too dry.
FWIW, check out the third video in the refinishing series. Towards the end of it you can see a basic shellac padding technique.
Keep me posted on your progress.
Peter
Hi Peter, when you start to pad on the shellac what lb cut do you recommend.
Whole Milk.
Which translates to 1.5- 2 lb.
Peter
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