I’m having some trouble with fisheyes looking for advice.
Project in question is an alder chest.
Wiped on 2 coats of BLO 24 hrs apart.
After 24 hrs I sprayed 2 coats of Zinnsers clear shellac.
Couldn’t get back to it for a couple days piece was left covered by a movers blanket in my shop.
First thing this A M I spray the first coat Benjamin Moore “Stays Clear”
waterborne polyurethane and quickly after application, the fisheyes developed.
This happened once before and I thought I had caused it by using some wet or dry sandpaper I had. I thought the paper might have had some silicates (I think their called) in it so this time I used common painters sandpaper between coats.
I’m spraying with a conventional cup gun with a dryer in the line.
I really would like to break the code on this waterborne finishing.
I was using the BLO to give the wood some color (the waterbornes are all too clear for my liking) and the shellac as a barrier coat.
Any comments would be welcome
Thanks
Replies
You used Zinsser's Clear, which contains wax. Waterborne finishes, with or without poly, don't adhere well because of the wax.
To go under any polyurethane varnish or waterborne varnish you must use dewaxed shellac. Zinsser sells Seal Coat which is dewaxed. The aerosol shellac made by Zinsser is also dewaxed. You can also mix your own shellac from dewaxed shellac.
You can also add a few drops of Amber TransTint dye to waterborne finishes to warm them up a bit.
Stearated sandpaper can also cause problems for waterborne finishes. The stearate is a chemical soap that does reduce clogging, but as you may have found, sometimes with ill effects.
Thanks
I was buying the clear thinking it was the dewaxed.
I'll have to get some of the Seal Coat.
It's all getting just a bit hard to find.
Some paint stores don't even carry shellac at all anymore.
Sometimes you can only get the good stuff online and pay the freight, but at least you've got the right stuff.
Edited 6/1/2008 9:42 pm ET by veggiefahmah123
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