I recently performed a classical beginner error: I left a 4×4 of treated wood on my General 50-185 for 2 days. When I went to cut the piece to length I saw a very dark and dense band of rust underneath the wood.
First, I applied Rust Free until there was no trace of rust. This required about 5 applications. I noticed that the Rust Free left its own stains as well.
Then I applied a few coats of Bits and Blades. This evened out the finish but I still have two large bands of fish eyes as well as a dark stain across the entire top that looks like an edge view of the Milky Way.
The top feels smooth and even to my finger tips with no discernable difference between the unstained part and the stain.
Is there any way to remove this stain or is it something I should ignore.
Thanks,
Sutton
Replies
I ignore the stains on my various cast iron power tool tables. Hasn't made any difference on anything I've been doing. Keep it waxed and you should be good to go.
Perfect reply! I agree fully.. No matter how hard you try.. Cast-Iron WILL RUST AND STAIN someday.However, wet sanding with a little mineral oil (wipe dry) and follow up with a good wax helps alot.In fact (If I remember to) I usually apply a light wax before and after using my saw. I do not bother buffing it. Wax just seems to clean up itself. Seems to help. Well, till I forget and leave my glass of Jack with the ice-cube on top....
"...and leave my glass of Jack with the ice-cube on top...."
Dang, you have that problem too?
Ice in Jack! What is the world coming to?
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
Good spirits don't need ice. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Good spirits don't need ice??Yep they do! I'm A yank IN Chicago. Besides, going for ice gives me time before I finish it!
"...and leave my glass of Jack with the ice-cube on top...."Another poster boy for shop safety.
Another nanny for the politically correct huh? There are those among us responsible enough to enjoy a libation and sit and survey our domain without getting possesed by the demon rum and running to the nearest power tool and performing amputations! I hope there was an OSHA inspector looking over your shoulder as you made that post making sure your approved tip proof water bottle was far enough away from your ergonomic keyboard and that you were wearing your approved anti carpal tunnel typing braces and your anti computer radiation face shield, steel toed shoes!
Relax, I'm only kidding. I dialed in my RAS so it wouldn't vibrate my glass of Beam Black off the arm during particularly heavy cuts.
Wow! your RAS is steadier than mine. Rounded arm does'nt help either!
I have a hand tool shop and usually end the day with a glass of wine or two or three with my wife and maybe some of the neighbors out in the shop. Sometimes I keep working. There's no need in drinking without feeling a touch of the 'medicinal properties.' Can be very inspirational, frankly.
I doubt I'd run a radial arm saw (if I had one) after having a few, but I surely don't mind cutting some dovetails or other joinery.
I didn't mean to come across as the shop drunk (though it would be an interesting PBS series -- this week on the New Yankee Workshop, Norm whistles in a case of Bud and builds an artificial hand). I was just trying to assure dgreen I was kidding about the "shop safety" note I posted earlier. Though I may have mixed the demon rum with power tools during my misspent youth (there probably still are a few glass rings on top of my RAS), now if the booze comes out, the machines shut down.
Another poster boy for shop safety.
I only SIP it!
You're no longer a beginner, because your saw is no longer new..... ;-)
I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
Welcome to woodworking. Finally your saw looks like a tool that you actually use, not just some "decoration" in the workshop. LOL.
Put some wax on the top to protect it from rusting and you should be fine. Over time any machined cast iron surface will get some stains.
IIRC, Rust Free is one of the acidic rust removers, right? Yuck!
I had a few spots like that on my bandsaw table. Bought one of the Sandflex sanding blocks as seen here, it worked quite well. These can be followed up with various grits of W/D sandpaper and WD40 or whatever, to blend things in as it were.
If you must use a rust remover, try EvapoRust, which can now be found at AutoZone stores in (I believe) quart containers. It is not acidic and will leave no color changes or unpleasantness behind, and it doesn't require gloves and extra safety precautions.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The moment I saw the rust I reached for RustFree because that's all I had on hand. It was highly recommended by the local Woodcraft which is where I bought the saw. I will admit that it not only stinks but burns my eyes as well. Donned my filtered mask and safety glasses and stood as far away as possible.The saw top, as all mentioned, is sort of like drawing first blood for the uninitiated. I will not, however, endeavor to cut a few fingers off.Thanks to all for your support,
SH
I think we all have to try these once, just for initiation purposes, LOL. For so long, they were the only rust solution available other than sanding I guess.
Just for kicks, take a look at this post from Len re: the bandsaw he refurbished using EvapoRust. I've bought a big pail of the stuff from a distributor who was retiring, haven't had a chance to use it yet, but am expecting excellent results. They also make "wipes."forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG, I've been reading about this Evaporust product for two years on this forum. Back in 2004 it seemed like the holy grail of metal restoration and you yourself acquired some. I really would like to know from some of you who have actually used the product on woodworking tools what the results were. The bandsaw example was impressive, but some more controlled trials would be good to see; such as doing 1/2 of a rusty piece. Is there something to this product or is it time to close the book on another internet marketing ploy? Also, I seem to recall that it might be available in small quantities at one of the automotibe retailers. Do you remember which one?
I recently worked for a company that marketed "miracle products" such as a treatment for slippery floors and a solution that caused snow to melt as it fell onto paved surfaces. Although there was some truth in their claims, they never worked quite like the ads claimed. The real truth was that these products could be produced for pennies on the gallon and sold for $50.00. I hope that this isn't another example.
As to the auto store, as mentioned in my earlier post, I believe it is AutoZone.
My understanding is that EvapoRust was initially used exclusively in industry (and the military??). That may be where most of the literature is oriented.
I know Len (of the bandsaw restoration thread) pretty well, and he is certainly qualified to judge the efficacy of the product. I don't need any recommendation beyond his, but there is some other info on-line. If I can ever get time to work on some of the rusty stuff, I'll definitely post a thread with the results, but no guarantees when that will be. I bought it just before Christmas, but trying it out has been low on the priority list.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thanks FG. I'll check out the Autozone. My abrasive rubber block post fell on deaf ears, but I am very particular about the cast iron parts of my tools, and nothing else that I have tried consistently delivers the results of this method. Lie-Nielsen uses the same product to clean up cast parts. I would only use a chemical agent on something like a flea market plane that sorely needed rescueing.
If you try it and like it, here's something I just learned: they make some kind of "patch" that you can lay on a surface that's so large it can't be dipped. Could have used that when I got my Veritas router table that was (ab)used. Here's a link of one seller.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"miracle products"..Your local metal plater! IF you have the money for it!
They can make anything look like new and in almost in metal! Well, they do not fill the BIG rust holes.. Just make em' look pretty!
Mix 1 cup coffee, 3 tbs blood, 3 tbs persperation(sweat), 1/2 cup sawdust, 1/4 cup oil based varnish, 1/4 cup Titebond glue. Spread evenely on table top and let set 1 week. Scrap off with a sharp plane blade and your good to go!
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
Mike- I just clicked on your link- congratulations on your new-found freedom. If you'll be selling any plane parts, will you post something here in the classifieds? Sorry for the threadjack.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
LOL... GOOD ONE!
Would that be Regular, Decaffeinated or Expresso?
I have to respectfully disagree with the other posters here and steer you in the direction of the abrasive impregnated rubber blocks that are available from Klingspoor, Garrett Wade, and Lie-Nielsen. I have used these for years on my machine tops, followed with a light spray of Boeing's Boeshield spray. These blocks are also great for maintaining the original-look finish on hand planes. They come in three grits. I usually order the set of three and get an extra medium, too.
I never had good luck with chemical rust removers on polished iron surfaces. They definitely change the color and smoothness when they etch. For small loose parts, etc. Naval Jelly works just fine, and is similar to the other liquids mentioned here.
I agree with the rest about just leaving it. But if you must, try scotch bright under your ROS and if that doesnt work 600 wet and dry usually does the job. We kept the saws in the store clean and shinny that way. Apply a little Johnson's paste wax to the top when your done to help protect it in the future. Its the Canola oil that is preventing the rust not the wax so if you want you can use TopSaver or any of the other Canola based protectants. Bits and Blades is made by the same folks that make TopSaver and the ingrediants are pretty much the same.
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