Hello All,
I am finishing up my first drawer (glued up last night) and now I have to affix the drawer front. It is not an inset drawer front so I’m concerned about how much overlay I have to use on the top and bottom. The width (up and down) of the drawer is 5″ and I have a 5 1/2″ piece of maple that I really want to use. I can extend as far as I want on both sides but from top to bottom I only have a 1/4″ overlay. Is this sufficient or should it be more like 1/2″.
Also, I’m wondering if there is a need for using hardwood on the drawer front. I have plenty of pine that I can cut to 6″ width or more but I’m trying to use wood that I have on-hand. Also, the drawer front is going to be painted white. This is a fairly large drawer (about 20″ X 22″ X 5″) and it will be used in a kitchen island I am making. Any experienced advice would be helpful. I have searched the archives and did not find anything definitive on what I’m asking… Thanks..
Regards,
Buzzsaw
Replies
Buzzsaw, I install lots of manufactured kitchen cabinets as well as build custom. A 1/4" overlap on the drawer front is plenty. This will correspond to the door below in most cases. Most manufactured cabinets only have two screws holding on the front. When I add the drawer pulls, I use long bolts and these do a good job of making the front more solid. If your countertop lips down over the top of the cabinet, you will want to make sure there is no interference. If I build with loose fronts, I use at least four screws plus the long pull bolts.
Beat it to fit Paint it to match
Thank you Hammer about the over overlay question. What about using non-hardwood for drawer front? Is hardwood the recommended solution? Thanks for your post.Regards,
Buzzsaw
Folks use all kinds of materials from metal to plastic. So technically you can use what ever you want. Personally I use hardwood most of the time. Selecting a board that has good growth ring structure is probably the important consideration. I try to avoid boards that have the curved rings and look for ones that are not plain sliced right through the center of the tree. The wider the piece the more important this becomes to prevent future cupping.
Beat it to fit Paint it to match
"If I build with loose fronts...." What's a "loose front"? I'm drawing a blank.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
"What's a "loose front"?"
FG,
Drawer box is built as a unit with front, back, sides and bottom. The assembly fits completely inside the opening. Then, a finished front is attached with screws from the inside of the drawer box.
Regards,Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
Forestgirl, Like Bill Arnold said. I don't ever remember a manufactured kitchen that did not have them. Not so common on furniture.
From now on you won't be "drawing a blank" when it comes to "plankin a draw" ,
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Got it. Didn't recognize the term. Have actually made a couple of 'em!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 9/19/2004 1:02 am ET by forestgirl
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