Replies

1. 
   GaryW | Apr 17, 2006 09:40pm | #1

   Hi russtan,

   Those shelves in the photo are supported by 3/4-in-diameter, all-thread rods, spaced every two feet or so. Before fitting the shelf to the wall, I drilled through grout lines and into the block behind the stone, and then I epoxied the rods in place. If they weren't perfectly level and square to the wall, I tapped them so after the epoxy set. Likewise, I drilled the back edge of the shelves to accept the rods, which extended about 6-inches from the wall face. I made the hole in the shelf slightly oversize so the shelf would slide into place. I then used those rods to temporarily support the shelf while fitting it to the wall.

   Whether the stone face is relatively flat, with shallow furrows (as is the stone in my attached photo), or with deeper furrows between and in stones, you'll scribe the shelf to the face of the stone. I've done that with a $1.69 compass I've had in my kit for over thirty years.

   First, set the shelf at its location on rods or temporary supports, clamping it so it won't move. Then set the distance between a compass' pencil and tracing points at the greatest distance the shelf's top or bottom edge is from the deepest furrow in the stone. Using a cheap compass, you can bend the tracing point to reach into deep furrows. Once set, lock the scribing compass. Then, starting at one end of the shelf top, hold it perpendicular to the stone, and carefully trace or follow the stone as you mark the top of the shelf. Without changing the compass setting, do the same on the bottom of the shelf.

   Depending on how rough the stone is, you’ll probably have to spoke shave, chisel or gouge the edge of the shelf (as I did in those in the photo). After making your first cuts, try the shelf on the temporary support. If it needs more trimming to make you happy, reset the scribing compass - again to the greatest distance, and scribe, cut and fit again. Remember that the top and bottom edge is all you’ll see when done. Knowing this, I sometimes make my work easier by using a router to hollow out the back edge, leaving the corners intact and leaving an inch or so of the ends square and flat. I do that before initially scribing and cutting.

   I hope this helps.

    

   Gary W

   gwwoodworking.com

   
1. 
   russstan | Apr 17, 2006 11:23pm | #2

   Gary

    

   Thank you for the very quick reply. Also very understandable. My wall is very rough with significant difference in surface depth, it a very rough stone fireplace. Since I am the second owner, I am not sure what is behind the stone. When I drill I will find out.

    

   Russ

1. 
   GaryW | Apr 18, 2006 12:28am | #3

   Hi again Russ,

   I was fortunate enough to know that concrete block is behind the stone veneered kitchen wall. I can only guess what might be behind the stone on your fireplace.

   If you could post a photo, I might put more trust in my guesses. Please also tell me the age of the house and fireplace, if this is a gas or wood burning one, whether it's on an outside wall or in the center of the house, the dimensions of the fireplace - including the firebox and chimney width, if on the outside.  And tell me the width, depth and thickness of the shelf. I might then have more confidence in the test holes I'd drill with the smallest diameter bit possible to reach behind the stone. Don't forget the photo.... it'll speak many words.Gary W

   gwwoodworking.com

1. 
   russstan | Apr 18, 2006 12:43am | #4

   The fireplace is in what is for now my vacation house soon to be my place of retirement. I won't be there until this weekend and when I get back I will immediately leave on a one week business trip so the photo will take awhile to post.

    

   It is a wood burning fireplace on an interior wall centered on the wall that divided the living room from the master bedroom. It is the type of fireplace with a metal insert to circulate warm air. The stones are floor to ceiling.

   Russ

1. 
   GaryW | Apr 18, 2006 12:54am | #5

   Russ,

   I'm a patient guy, but if email is easier, try that.Gary W

   gwwoodworking.com