Replies

1. 
   screename56 | Apr 14, 2010 09:39am | #1

   Teak countertops

   jf,

   I have recently completed building a custom home for a client that had beautiful teak countertops in the kitchen.  The company that  build the tops does alot of wood tops. The product they use to finish the tops with is called 'Waterlox'.  I went on-line and typed in the name of the product and it showed it to have a base of tung oil.  As I read more about it, they do mention mineral spirits as the solvent in the tung oil.  Waterlox may be available to you. Be sure to check out the website.

   I also remember when the tops were delivered to the construction site , the installer said that if we drilled any holes in the top, such as for the faucets, it was important to apply the waterlox to the sides of the hole. 

   I am going to attempt to attach a photograph to this reply.  Maybe it will work. if not, send me your email address and I can send the photograph to you if you would like to see it.

   Regards, Screenname56

   
1. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 14, 2010 10:05am | #2

   "Waterlox" is a brand name

   "Waterlox" is a brand name for a family of finishing products.  You are probably referring to Waterlox Original.  This is an oil based varnish.  A varnish is made by mixing a resin with a drying oil, heating it to a certain point where the two combine into a product called "varnish".  In the case of Waterlox Original, the resin is phenolic and the drying oil is tung oil.  However, once the two have been mixed and heated it is no longer pure tung oil.  Sure, it's made with tung oil but that does not mean it's the same as pure tung oil.  "Made with tung oil" is purely a marketing ploy.

   That said, Waterlox Original is an excellent varnish and can certainly be used on a countertop.  Be aware though, teak is a naturally oily wood and film finishes like varnish have difficulty maintaining good adhesion.  The surface of the wood should be wetted with lacquer thinner or acetone and then completely wiped dry with lots of paper towels.  This removes the oil.  Apply the finish as soon as you wipe off the solvent.

   A final note, no film finish will stand up to much heat and certainly won't stand up to pounding, chopping or cutting.

2. 
   jfsksa | Apr 15, 2010 10:01am | #3

   thanks

   Thanks for the comments and the kitchen shown is beautiful...so beautiful that it cost me a bunch of money.  My wife saw it and said "I want that kitchen!"  Sigh...

3. 
   Don01 | Apr 20, 2010 01:29am | #4

   Teak Finishing

   I have been doing a bit of work with teak for a friend's sailboat. I made a table and a set of companionways doors.

   I sanded, wipe with acetone, then applied a coating of XIM Primer, Sealer, Bonder 400 Clear. This is provides additional bonding to the teak. I coated with Sikkens Marine finish. 2 coats thinned to 25%, 2 coats thinned to 50% and 2 coats full strength. I polished the table top with a mildly abrasive automotive polish.

   These pieces will be out in the sun, wind and rain so the extra coats are required. I am going to add additional coat to the doors the season. I suggest that putting any amount of oil on teak is a waste of time other than for the exercise. The oil won't penetrate and the varnish will be to dilute to offer any long term protection.

   You may not be able to locate the XI-M product, but something like Sikkens light or ePiphanes applied very thin - 20-25% for the first 2 - 3  coats should help to get a good initial bond. This would also work for any quality varnish you can obtain. Lots of thin coats rather than a few thicker coats.

   Don   

1. 
   Gretchen | Apr 20, 2010 01:04pm | #5

   You are probably the first person I have ever heard of quoting XIM.  My painter used it to prime our kitchen (not clear) and said it was the best on the market.  I have posted about it occasionally and been told I meant "BIN"!! LOL

   Your advice sounds like an excellent prep.

1. 
   Don01 | Apr 20, 2010 03:12pm | #6

   XIM Sealer Primer Bonder

   Hi Gretchen,

   I picked up this tip from one of the boat finishing forums. The recommended product was Flashbond 300, typically used  to enhance bonding automotive finishes to the steel body parts. I contacted the company as I could only find the 400 in my area. XIM said the 400 would work equally well. He also noted that they get many inquiries about using it under teak.

   My first application was spooky - the primer stayed tacky for several days so I sanded it off. I learned later that this was not uncommon and to apply the first coat of finish to the still tacky primer. The primer and first coat of finish cure together. It did cure nicely and I continued applying the Sikkens top coats.

   Don