Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Jan 05, 2007 06:19pm | #1

   fsg,

   Let's start from the top. Instead of washcoating you need to put a ground (or base color) down. You said you used a transtint dye. Did you use water or alcohol as the solvent? I would suggest you mix into water as opposed to alcohol to slow it down a little. Personally, I usually use water soluble dyes for this operation.

   First wet the wood down once to raise the grain, let dry and sand it with 180 grit. Whether you use transtints or water dyes you'll need two colors; a medium yellow or golden brown and a brown I.E. brown amber maple or brown mahogany are two that come to mind.

   Have both colors ready. Apply the light color overall first. Watch the surface as the water stars to dry. You'll want to apply the second color BEFORE the first totally dries. Apply the second color sparingly to the lighter area. Let it dry and seal it with shellac.

   If you've never worked with water as a solvent do a sample and let the surface dry completely. You'll see that it dries very flat. If you put another color on it in this state, it will "pull " or reactivate the first color. This is the reason you need to work it while it is still in a semi wet condition. It allows the colors to blend.

   After you sand the sealer, you can then further glaze it to deepen and richen your color.

   Make some samples to get the hang of ground coloring. You'll find it isn't that hard, it just takes a little practice.

   Get back to me and tell me what you are using for glazes and I'll help you with that.

   You say you are new to finishing. You have the right instinct though and that is what we call "creeping up on the color" Good for you!

   Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.

   Peter Gedrys

    

    

    

    

1. 
   fsg | Jan 09, 2007 02:56am | #2

   Peter,

   Thank you for your suggestions on finishing soft maple. I've made two sample panels and stained them according to your suggestions and found that I did get a deeper, more uniform color. However, I'm a bit confused why you suggested not to washcoat the panel since maple is prone to blotching. How do you deal with this blotching later on in the finish process. After I stained the two panels with water soluble transtint  a I applied one coat of sealcoat. At this point I've been using General finishes gel stains as a glaze, I've tried toning both sealcoat and shellac but find it leaves color streaks in the finish. What are your suggestions. And finally, after glazing and/or toning should you apply another layer of sealcoat or go directly to applying the finish, such as shellac. What is the apprppriate wax for shellac and should you fill the pores before staining or just rub out the finish with rottenstone. Thanks, agin for all your help.

    

     

    

1. 
   peter28 | Jan 11, 2007 05:52pm | #3

   fsg,

   To wash coat or not....... Every case is different. I mentioned not wash coating so you could even out the sap wood first. You could wash coat that ground color and come over it again with a stronger version of the color to deepen it.

   Once you seal that in with Sealcoat (blonde shellac) and sand, you can use your glaze. Try thinning it out a little as gels are quite thick.

   When the glaze is dry, seal it again, sand it and you're ready to apply any finish you'd like. Remeber Sealcoat is shellac.

   Concerning toning; I'll bet you are putting too much color in the shellac. If you are using TranTints a drop goes a LONG way. 

   When I use a colored shellac, it's to enhance the overall look. I'll make my color corrections in the glazing process. The reason being; I can wipe off the glaze before it dries if I don't like what I see. When you try color corrections with a toner you better be damn sure it's right because reversing it involves removing previous coats.

   You are doing the exact right thing by making sample boards. Be sure and keep track of your steps so when you see what you like, you can repeat it.

   Good luck and keep me posted.

   Peter