I recently built 2 cabinets for my grandchildren. After I primed and sanded everything, I applied a water base paint with a foam roller. It came out “blotched” in several places even after a second coat. I re-sanded and the applied the same paint with a 1/4″ Nap Roller. This came out without the blotches but had a “textured” look and feel, which I did not want. Again, I re-sanded and this time applied an “oil base” paint with a foam roller. No blotches but it did not cover the “textured” look. So, I decided to just leave it that way since I was quite frustrated at this point. After everything dried, I put a wipe on poly coat on it and after drying, eveything looks yellow. Where am I going wrong? This is maple hardwood plywood and I thought it would take the paint okay. Should it be sprayed. Sealed with shellac or something else before the primer?
I’m lost. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jerry
Replies
Using a roller to apply paint will not result in a perfectly smooth surface. You need to spray or brush.
If you stil see the "textured" look, it means you did not really sand out all the texturing from the prior coat.
If you applied an oil based wipe-on poly you will end up with an amber cast to any light or white colored undercoat. Oil based poly is made with linseed oil which is amber or yellow. Why did you apply the wipe-on coat? Oil based paint is nothing more than clear varnish with opaque pigments added. Applying an oil based varnish will not provide any additional protection.
Thanks
I applied the wipe on because I thought I'd get some extra protection. So, with an oil base paint, I don't need a top coat? I am going to spray the next finish.
I do appreciate your advise!
Jerry
Paint finish
I would suggest a very thorough sanding. Than seal with two coats of white pigment shellac based finish. Light sanding and spray cans of acrylic finish of your choice
SA
By acrylic finish, do you mean oil based? I'm investing in an HVLP unit fo spraying. As for the sanding, you are right. I guess I hurried my last sanding job.
Thanks,
Jerry
No, acrilyc is a waterborne finish. Ask for a waterborne acrylic enamel trim paint. You don't want to spray oil based paint.
If you are new to spray painting, buy a book by Charron titled Spray Finishing. It will tell you what you need to know about equipment and what you need to know about spraying on a finish. It's not just loading the gun and pulling the trigger. Practice on cardboard boxes until you are comfortable with how things work and you have learned how to lay on a smooth, even finish.
Start over
I'm not a fan of water based enamels, getting them smooth is way too difficult. Unfortunately, we are being pushed to them as voc limitations are choking out the oil based alternatives. There is a product called Floetrol that helps make latex finishes level out better. It's designed as an additive when spraying latex, but I've used it extensively when brushing latex enamel. Basically it slows down the drying time of latex and allows it to level out better without thinning the paint.
I'd sand this back down to bare wood, apply a heavy based sandable primer, and paint with a good quality oil based enamel. The trick to applying oil based enamel with a foam roller is to lightly brush, or "tip" the paint immediately after rolling it. I also treat the paint with Penetrol (the oil based cousin of Floetrol) and thinner. The Floetrol slows the drying process allowing the paint to level without overly thinning the paint. I also use ox hair brushes for any finish work. It is worth the extra money for the quality of finish.
Thanks
I've decided to just that. Re-sand as much as I can then use an oil based enamel. I've ordered a LVHP sprayer so I'm going to try spraying. I've not sprayed before but I'm going to give it a go. From what you are saying, I should probably use the Penetrol to thin the paint for spraying. I've painted lots of things in the past but never anything like a cabinet or bookshelf where the finish has to be "right" in order to look good. I do appreciate your response.
Jerry
Paint
Acrylic enamel - not water based and it won't yellow as much as oil paint - and will go over posters previous work following the white primer. Also easy for someone without spray equipment( spray cans) looking for a smoother finish than the brush - but I see he has ordered a gun so his ability to use different products will be greater.
SA
Acrylic
Howie,
I'm thinking of the solvent based spray finishes by Krylon- there is some formula they make which doesn't yellow - they call it acrylic enamel ? - poster was looking for something to go on smooth so I thought of the spray cans after a primer.
what do you think is best for poster - I can't keep up with all the products on the market -
SA
Spam
If you haven't already - ask Gina to put your name on the trusted list and you won't encounter the spam filter
SA
Thank you but that's not the answer. Why don't they just fix the board? This is not the only issue. I participate on a number of boards and none of them have these issues.
And they wonder why they lose participants.
Hang In There
Too many are gone already - this site doesn't want to loose you !
SA
I have to disagree
HowardAcheson wrote:
>>>> then use an oil based enamel. I've ordered a LVHP sprayer so I'm going to try spraying.
No, you don't want to spray oil based finishes. They are slow drying and the overspray droplets are in liquid form. They will float in the air and anything they touch or land on will end up with a hard crust. If you want to spray oil based finishes you will need a good spray both or you will need to spray outdoors.
Only spray fast drying finishes like waterborne finishes or evaporative finishs like lacquer or shellac.
Do not put any additives into your finishes unless you know what you are doing. Today's finishes are formulated by the manufacturer to be applied out of the can.
HowardAcheson wrote:
>>>> then use an oil based enamel. I've ordered a LVHP sprayer so I'm going to try spraying.
No, you don't want to spray oil based finishes. They are slow drying and the overspray droplets are in liquid form. They will float in the air and anything they touch or land on will end up with a hard crust. If you want to spray oil based finishes you will need a good spray both or you will need to spray outdoors.
Only spray fast drying finishes like waterborne finishes or evaporative finishs like lacquer or shellac.
I've been spraying oil based finishes for years. You certainly have to make provision for overspray, but that has to be done regardless of what you're doing.
HowardAcheson wrote:
Do not put any additives into your finishes unless you know what you are doing. Today's finishes are formulated by the manufacturer to be applied out of the can.
I agree one needs to know what they're doing when adjusting a finish before application, but the only finishes ready to apply out of the can are the cheap ones from the big box store. When using those, you're at the mercy of whatever they determined the best use of the product was. I only use quality grade finishes, generally Benjamin Moore. BM's oil based enamel has to be adjusted for the intended use, whether brush or spray. Sherwin Williams oil based enamel is only really intended for spray and is terrible to brush.
I don't use acrylic for furniture.
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