Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 11, 2008 10:26pm | #1

   I prefer oak pores to be filled if it is to have a film finish on it.  That makes it more formal.  Film finish on unfilled oak can be very cheap looking in my opinion.  This is especially true if the plywood is rotary cut. 

   To get dark, the first step is to use dye.  Powdered analine dye mixed in water can be applied to obtain what ever darkness you desire, depending on how concentrated you mix the dye. 

   After that, the surface should be sealed with one coat of Zinsser Seal Coat or with a coat of your final top coat well diluted.  When this sealer is dry, apply pre filler tinted with a pigment that is just a tad lighter or darker than the base color established with the dye.  With oak, this is likely to take two coats, with oil-based filler being spaced at least 48 hours apart.  Then give the pore filler a week to cure before applying the top coat. 

   For a top coat, with durability as the primary criterion, I recommend a wiping varnish, either made by diluting a good varnish yourself (examples are Behlen Rockhard or Pratt & Lambert 38)  or by using a pre-mixed wiping varnish such as
   Waterlox Original/Sealer.  Wiping varnish will require about 6 to 9 coats for good durability.  You can apply the coats in groups of 2 or 3, with just long enough for the preceeding coat to be dry to the touch, and with full overnight drying between groups.  Sand off defects between each group. 

2. 
   JiminFla | Feb 11, 2008 10:40pm | #2

   Oak is a wood that has open pores.  These pores are visible on the surface of the wood after it is stained and topcoated.  Many people like the way that looks and if you do as well, you don't have to fill the grain.  If you want a glass-smooth finish on oak, you need to fill these pores.  The easiest was I know is to use a commercial grain filler.  After the filler dries for a couple of days it can be lightly sanded and you can achieve a very smooth finish.  You can apply many coats of lacquer, shellac or varnish to try to fill the pores, but it takes a lot longer than just filling them with a commercial filler.  If you haven't worked with a grain filler before, try it on a piece of scrap oak first.  It needs to dry to a consistency where it won't come out of the pores when you wipe it off, but if you wait too long, it's difficult to remove.  This isn't rocket science...all you need to do is practice until you get a feel for how long you need to let it set.  Use a piece of burlap to remove the excess.

   Jim