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We purchased a solid maple butcher block that is 24″ x 24″ x 16″ thick. It is absolutely solid and weighs about 300 lbs. It is end grain and the pieces are joined by sliding dovetails. My wife and I found it in an antique store here in Canada hiding under a bunch of other junk.
It appears to have been coated with some sort of clear finish and has drip marks down the side. Does anyone have any ideas of how to find out what was applied to it or would I be better off to strip it and re-apply some sort of mineral oil or almond oil. We do plan on using it for chopping food and want to find out if it is safe or not.
Thanks in advance for any advice. I am a frequent lurker here and I know there is a huge amount of knowledge in this forum. Thanks again for everyones time and expertise. I left my digital camera at work but I will try to post a picture of the dovetail detail as it is pretty incredible.
Replies
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Wouldy,
If it were mine I would remove the old finish, re-plane the surfaces, and re-finish with mineral oil.
Dano
*Old butcher block were often finished with paraffin or beeswax. However, it may have been improperly finished at some point with a non-food finish.You could tell pretty easily if this were wax by scraping off a drip and examining it. As an interesting point, there often were drips on the sides of large butcher locks because they would be maintained by scraping the top and pouring hot wax on it.In any case, I agree with Dano that a surface cleaning via plane and scraper would be in order followed by mineral oil or wax.Please do post that picture, I would love to see those dovetails you are descibing.Peace.-Rob
*The traditional finish for an true butcher block (end grain) was/is a mixture of paraffin and mineral oil. The oil was heated--use a double boiler--and about 10% paraffin shaved into it and dissolved. It was applied warm and let harden then lightly scraped to take the excess wax off.First it must be completely cleaned. There used to be iterarent guys who would come around to butcher shops and cut or grind the surface down flat again and apply the coating. If it was used to cut meat, you need to give it a heavy scraping at least.
*Nice find! I would agree with what others have said regarding planing and scraping away the other finish. Mineral oil and beeswax makes for an easy, pleasant smelling finish. You have to reapply it often however. I'm making a cutting board right now and am applying Tried and True Danish Oil which is an old-fashioned boiled linseed oil recipe - completely non-toxic, food safe - no heavy metal driers or solvents,etc. Also, very easy to apply. This finish won't require the frequent maintenance that mineral and other non-drying oils will and it looks great. Will bring a slight yellowish color to maple, but not such a big deal on end-grain. Good luck,joe murphy
*Thanks for all the replies. I am trying to attach a picture but it keeps telling me it is too large. Anyone know what the maximum size is? The picture I was trying is 391 KB. I can adjust the settings on my camera to take a picture of lesser quality.I have a picture of my 3yr. old on it and my 1yr. old under it to show how dense this behemoth is. Anyways, Danish Oil is food safe and easy to apply? How often would that be applied as compared to mineral oil and ultimately which finish is better? I don't care if I had to apply something every day. As long as it stays protected.
*Wouldy,No problem. As to posting jpgs, I've been having the same problem. Used to be there wasn't a size limit, I would generally reduce the jpgs down to around 500K. This started happening a couple of months ago. I made an inquiry to SysOps, "they" replied with the method, which I already knew. I replied that I knew how and re-stated that I was getting a "file too large" message, haven't heard back from them since. Things seem to have gone a little "downhill" since they switched servers, IMHO.Dano
*Wouldy,FWIW, I asked Tim Sams about file sizes. Seems that when the gurus changed servers they forgot to tell us that there is now a file size restriction of 200Kb maximum. Try posting those pics here again.Dano
*Here's a link to the Tried & True site with more info if you're interested: http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.comBy the way, not all "Danish Oils" would be as healthy and food-friendly as the True & True product due to extra stuff in the can. The T&T Danish Oil is pure linseed oil that has been "polymerized" through heating. Watco and others have solvents and metal driers to help reduce drying time. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.joe
*Alright, here we go. This first picture is one of the whole thing as it sits in my kitchen (with one of my bulldogs "Biff"). Then I will reply to your message again and post one with a close up of the dovetails.I have never seen a butcher block with this type of construction. Has anyone out there? Thanks again for the replies. The knowledge base of people here like Dano is astounding.
*Heres the second picture of the dovetail construction.
*Wouldy, yes, that is the way true commercial butcher shop butcher blocks were made. The dovetails indicate that it was made by a high quality manufacturer.It's hard to tell what the finish might have been. It was probably unfinished originally so the coating was put on afterwards. I'll bet it's varnish but here is how you might be able to tell.Apply a dab of alcohol on a hidden part using a Q-tip. Wait a minute or so and dab with a dry Q-tip and see if it is sticky. If so, it's shellac. Now do the same thing with lacquer thinner. If it gets sticky, it lacquer. If neither has an effect, then it is either varnish or a two-part professional finish.Personally, with a chopping block like that, I would not ever really chop or cut on it. Make yourself a cutting board of the size of the top and cut on that.You have a real find there and it looks like any meat that falls off will quickly disappear.
*Geez Wouldy, I am almost too embarrassed to reply; thank you for the compliment.Any who, that is one gorgeous block! That baby obviously came from a real butcher. Can't recall ever seeing one with dove tails before. Has Biff been assigned to guard duty, he sure looks like it.b ;)Thanks for sharing the pics.Dano
*Thanks again for the insight. I was a littly worried that I was getting ripped off by the guy I bought it from because of the finish, but it does seem now that I got a great deal.Biff is a great guard dog (and we have another bully named Lucy as well), but the best thing about both of them is their love for children which is good as I have two young sons!!I am going to try that trick with the alcohol and lacquer. Will post the findings.Lee Spalding a.k.a. Wouldy
*Very nice block wouldy. I haven't seen one with dovetails like that either, end grain yes, but not like that and the individual blocks look pretty beefy themselves. Do the legs detach or unscrew? How are they attached?, is what I should ask. I saw one last year (Buffalo, NY) that had legs with huge turned screw threads for attachment, it weighed the same amt as yours. Have fun with it and thanks for the view.
*Howard, I thought a true commercial butcher block was made with Purpleheart and a Walnut border with Holly stringing. :-)
*Thanks Bill. I am glad I posted this thread here because it was quite educational. When we loaded it into my van I tried to twist the legs to see if they would unscrew but they wouldn't budge and I didn't want to break the seal or break anything off.But it appears as if about two thirds of the thickness of the legs goes into the block and now that it is in my kitchen, it is not the easiest thing to turn over and work on. When I refinish it maybe I will investigate more.Also something else of interest; it appears as if there are two through bolts that were used to pull all of the pieces together when constructed (goes through the opposite way of the dovetails). The reason I say it "appears" that way is because there is two corresponding plugs on either side.Lee a.k.a. Wouldy
*CS, those were only used in the very best butcher shops catering to the "hoity toity" carridge trade. They cost slightly more and so did the meat.
*It's a damn nice piece of equipment this block that Wouldy owns.That's what it is - a piece of equipment.
*Lee, Yes this is an interesting and educating type of site isn't it?, and it would be interesting to know how the legs are attached, like a big screw, hanger bolts of the large variety or if it is pinned in there with your thru bolts or some other way. I haven't seen one yet that had the legs as a permanent part of the block, sort of like one of those dovetail blocks extending downward to act as the leg. I would imagine that the good butcher blocks were made with detachable legs to make moving or any replacement/ repairs easier. But if yours is somehow different, all the better for you, you've got a keeper there. By the way, seeing that dog sitting by the block reminds me to add, throw that good ole' boy a bone! Happy holidays.
*Charles,That's precisely what it is. I confess to having only basic knowledge in regards to cutting boards and butcher blocks. But, after seeing this dude my interest in butcher blocks has sparked a fire to learn more about tools such as this that surprises me. I am actually embarrassed by the number of these tools that I have seen sitting in a corner of some antique shop that I gave only a passing glance to. My focus when I enter one of these shops will definitely be directed in another direction. I hereby announce that my focus on seeking out antique tools has just been modified. The number #1 priority is officially: Butcher Blocks!b :)So Lee, you really have no idea how glad I am for dropping in and taking the time to find out what the new deal was on posting jpgs. Even more thankful for you taking the time to post them. Thanks again and be sure to give Biff a belly rub for me.Dano
*Wow Dano. Just like you said before, I'm almost too embarrassed to reply. Little old me inspired someone like yourself to seek out new things. I'm speechless. Quite truthfully, I am in the same boat. I knew nothing of butcher blocks when I purchased this one, but after discussing it here with everyone I too am keeping an eye out for more "buried treasures". I have looked at quite a few in passing but not really examined any of them. It was my wife that told me to take a closer look at this one just because it looked like it was in good nick.Compared to some of the ones we have seen that dealers say are a "steal", I think we really did get this one for a steal!! I am going to call the antique dealer we got it from to say thanks and that I will be by his store again to purchase other things.Happy hunting Dano!! Let me know if and when you find something.PS I found out that Lee Valley carries the Tried and True Danish Oil and seeing as I only live 45 minutes away from Lee Valley (which is actually a dangerous thing. That is the biggest candy store EVER!), I am going to re-finish the block with that. Realistically that won't happen until the New Year, but I will be sure to post the results.Happy Holidays to all!!!
*Lee, If your're out and about looking for buried treasure, watch out for vintage, well maintained butcher block tools and I mean meat cleavers and other such meat and food prep knives and such. I recently came across the most attractive meat cleaver in the cellar of a home I was working in. Picked it up and the home owner told me to take it if I wanted it. They make a nice addition for your block.
*Thanks for the tip Bill, that's a good point. It actually came with a stainless steel attachment that screws into the side with openings on the top for several different sizes of knives and a round hole for a sharpener!The stainless steel is long enough to cover the full length of any blades that are in there. I will keep my eyes peeled for cleavers and such. Thanks again.Lee
*For someones question on how legs are(or were) attached, I have an old block(W/ the sliding dovetails) that have tenons, on the legs, which fit in bored holes in the block. Sucker is heavy.Lee, your're right about the bolts, mine has 3 allthreads going thru it.
*I had a closer look at the legs on mine the other day and it appears to have tenons which fit into bored holes as well. They sound similar, do you know any history behind yours? Where it came from, who made it, etc., etc.I don't know anything about mine. I bought it from an antique dealer in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada and the guy there did not know anything about it either. Too bad, but it is a beautiful piece of equipment, we are getting a lot of enjoyment from it.Lee (Wouldy)
*Don't know anything about mine either. I got it from a "Sanford & Son" junk dealer.
*There is the butcher block I was looking for. I asked about it in the "Plans" folder last July. I knew I'd seen it before!! OK. Not that particular block, but the design of end grain showing where the blocks are connected with sliding dovetails. Looking at the picture is enough to get the idea how it goes. This place b ISa wealth of information.Jack.
*Cool, glad I could be of assistance. Is my finders fee cheque in the mail?? Hee,Hee just kidding.Seriously though, if you want any more pictures just let me know and I will take a bunch and email them direct to you.Lee (Wouldy)
*Lee,On some other thread I participated in somebody stated opinions or ideas were a dime a dozen! So I only earned two twelfths of a dime, and that was only after letting him know that my posts were not opinions but ideas based on actual experience.So much for earning money from this site!!HA HA.In regards to the butcher block, I printed the picture you posted showing the top of the block and got a good idea of how it all goes together. Can you tell if there is any pattern or consistency to the layout of the dovetails? My thinking is there was a method used that allowed for a "production" run of these blocks where each one is NOT custom made as to the size of the individual pieces. How about a picture of the top with a ruler placed showing the layout of the dovetails? The other dimensions are not really important as they can be arbitrarily chosen.If you want. e-mail me, [email protected], Jack.
I know this is an old thread.
My uncle owned a butchershop in Upper Darby Pa. he use Salt as a cleaner for his butcherblock. Rubbed it on to degrease and purify. To seal he used Bees wax which he peeled into a mineral oil and brushed it on. The side board with the slit held a big Cleaver, and it was always a Chicago Cutlery boning knife, smaller utility knife and a long curved blade about 10-12 inc cimeter knife and a knife steel. Knife steels do not sharpen, they take the rough edges off a sharp knife and smooth out small knicks. Stones sharpen knives and a real butcher has 2 sets, 1 to send to the professional sharpener and one to work with. When I was youn there were guys who sold and shapened knives from the back of a truck and would even heat treat them. His block had 4 rods, 2 in each direction holding it together too. It weighed 350 lb, hard maple on end and measured 31 X 30 X 31 tall. I will always remember the dimensions of Uncle Harrys Chopping Block.
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