Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 19, 2008 12:57pm | #1

   Don't use raw linseed oil--it dries MUCH too slowly.  BLO will do everything raw linseed oil will do.  Thinning linseed oil raw or "boiled" does little to speed the curing time (after all it all evaporates well before curing occurs) but it does allow a bit of deeper penetration for the first coat. 

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 19, 2008 02:01pm | #2

   I used Tru-Oil on mine.  It's a finish that's traditionally used on gun stocks and my experience is that it wears quite well and is easily applied.  One 8 oz. container is more than enough and is easily obtained.

   http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=14512

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

3. 
   saschafer | Apr 19, 2008 03:37pm | #3

   The topic of workbench finishes is an endless one. One old-time finish formula that gets good reviews is beeswax/turpentine/boiled linseed oil: Dissolve 2 oz. beeswax in 1 pt. turpentine (shred the beeswax to speed dissolution). After the beeswax has dissolved, add 1 pt. boiled linseed oil. Apply one coat a day for several days, until it stops being absorbed into the wood.

   -Steve

    

4. 
   gb93433 | Apr 19, 2008 08:21pm | #4

   I use nothing on my workbench. Periodically the top will need to be hand planed flat so it maintain flatness. If you make a new bench let the wood stabilize for some time and then resize it before gluing the wood together to form the top. Wood bench makers have wood that is at least five years old before they use it. If you use old wood it will be harder and easier to machine and hand plane.

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 19, 2008 08:26pm | #5

   A film finish (lacquer, shellac, varnish, poly varnish) is not the way to finish a workbench top. A workbench is going to get dinged and film finishes will crack or craze or be otherwise damaged. Once a film finish is penetrated, it looses its effectiveness and adjacent areas begin to fail. No treatment is going to make a soft wood benchtop harder. I much favor a "in the wood finish". Here are two that lots of folks find effective.

   First, is an boiled linseed oil and wax finish. Sand the surface to 180 grit. Mix paraffin or bees wax into heated boiled linseed oil. USE A DOUBLE BOILER TO HEAT THE OIL. The ratio is not critical but about 5-6 parts of boiled linseed oil in a double boiler with one part paraffin or beeswax shaved in. Take it off the stove. Thin this mixture about 50/50 with mineral spirits to make a heavy cream like liquid. Apply this mixture to the benchtop liberally and allow to set overnight. Do it again the next day and again the following day if the top continues to absorb it. After a final overnight, lightly scrape off any excess wax and buff. This finish will minimize the absorbsion of any water and you can use a damp rag to wipe up any glue excess. Dried glue will pop right off the surface. Renewal or repair is easy. Just use a scraper to remove and hardened stuff, wipe down with mineral spirits using a 3/0 steel wool pad (a non-woven gray abrasive pad is better), wipe off the gunk and apply another coat of mineral oil/wax mixture.

   My personal preference is for an oil/varnish mixture treatment. Either use Minwax Tung Oil Finish, Minwax Antique oil or a homebrew of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, your favorite varnish or poly varnish and mineral spirits. Sand the benchtop up to 180 grit. Apply the mixture heavily and keep it wet for 15-30 minutes. Wipe off any excess completely. Let it dry overnight and the next day, apply another coat using a gray non-woven abrasive pad. Let it set and then wipe off any excess. Let this dry 48-72 hours. To prevent glue from sticking apply a coat of furniture paste wax and you're done. This treatment is somewhat more protective than the wax and mineral oil as the varnish component adds some protection from not only water both some other chemicals also. The waxing makes the surface a little more impervious to water so you can wipe up any liquid adhesive. It also allows hardened wax to be scraped off. Repair and renewal is easy. Just go throught the same scraping, wiping down with mineral spirits and reapplication of the BLO/varnish/mineral spirits mixture and an application of paste wax.

   Both of the above treatments are quite protective but are easy to maintain and renew. They do not fail when the surface takes a ding.

   Howie.........
6. 
   troys | Apr 20, 2008 06:24am | #6

   I know others don't like a film finish on a workbench but I like shellac with the wax still in it because it makes it easy to remove any glue that you might get on it. Of course if you have a dedicated glue-up table you won't have this problem:) With the shellac if it gets scratched you can just wipe another coat on it. I think some guy named Frenchy likes shellac;)

   Troy

1. 
   rsaunders | Apr 21, 2008 04:16am | #10

   I'm also a fan of shellac on the bench top. Easy cleanup and easy to repair."There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters."
   -- Daniel Webster

1. 
   troys | Apr 21, 2008 07:25am | #11

   I just on a lark used it on my crosscut cradle and tapering jig for the table saw and was very pleased at how much smoother they both worked.Troy

7. 
   murphreejz | Apr 20, 2008 06:26am | #7

   I did the 50/50 BLO & turpentine mixture. Works well, and I like to recoat every few months.

   Regards, JM

   "Without music to decorate it, time is just a bunch of boring production deadlines and dates by which bills must be paid." - Frank Zappa
8. 
   Rich14 | Apr 20, 2008 07:13pm | #8

   woodsplicer,

   The advice will go on and on and on . . . ad infinitum on this topic.

   The best finish for a workbench? How many different opinions do you want? How many contributors are in this forum?

   There is no best finish, except . . . elbow grease.

   Slap some boiled linseed oil on the thing, then wipe it as dry as you can. Wait a few days or so and get to using it.

   Periodically re-oil it with the barest amount of BLO. The only purpose of the finish is to give you a little extra time to get spilled glue, other finishes, paint, whatever, off the surface before they set up hard.

   Or to give you a little assist by preventing real good adhesion, when you scrape hardened stuff off the top.

   Rich

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/20/2008 12:16 pm ET by Rich14

1. 
   woodsplicer | Apr 21, 2008 03:16am | #9

   Thank you every one for your comments.There is plenty for me to go forward.With best regards to all.Woodsplicer.

9. 
   pattrnmkr | Apr 21, 2008 07:30pm | #12

   If you have the patience, Tried and True Varnish oil (L.V.) could be an excellent choice.

   The trick is heating it up till it's hot (i use an old crock pot)then apply thin coats, let it soak in, wipe it off, wait wait wait, then buff/burnish.

   Lots of folks don't like the wait, but the depth and sheen are a nice reward for all the work and patience.