Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 29, 2010 05:03pm | #1

   The two products are entirely different.  Watco Danish Oil is a mix of oil and varnish, with a lot of thinner.  It gives an in-the-wood finish.  It does provide moderate protection against water spotting.  It is often thought a relatively casual finish. You can mix your own Danish Oil by mixing equal parts of a oil based brushing varnish, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. It is wiped on, allowed to penetrate for a few minutes and then vigorously wiped off.  It may dull in a year or two and can be restored by another application.

   Waterlox is a quality oil based varnish.  It comes in three flavors, Satin and Gloss which are basically brush on varnishes, though with thinning they as with all oil based varnishes, can be wiped on.  In addition, the Original/Sealer is a semi-gloss varnish already thinned to be used as a wipe on.  Varnish builds a finish on the surface and provides a more protective and more formal finish.  Varnishes can be brushed or wiped.  If wiped it does not need to be wiped off and can be allowed to build a film.

1. 
   bones | Nov 30, 2010 09:53am | #2

   You can spray as well.

   I love waterlox on cherry.  It's tough and does not give it the plastic look (I use the satin finish).  It's easy to apply and I spray and have had good results.  I apply two coats of their sealer and two coats of the satin and buff with MS and 2k buffing pad for a great surface.  

1. 
   MarkC | Nov 30, 2010 04:12pm | #3

   Is the sealer to prevent blotching or does it have some other effect?

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 30, 2010 04:40pm | #4

   It's not going to reduce "blotching" which, with a basically clear finish is a revealing of nascent figure that is a natural part of the cherry.  It's marketed as sealer to sell more stuff. but it is a perfectly fine wipe on varnish, suitable as a top coat.  It really isn't needed as a sealer under the other products, you can just as easily thin the first coat, or even apply it full strength, thinning basically just lets the first coat dry a bit faster.  On a finish like oil based varnish, it remains fluid long enough to penetrate sufficiently for good bonding even for full strength applications. 

   Not many ways to reduce blotching with clear coats on cherry.  A initial coat of a super blonde shellac will show slightly less blotching than an oil based finish.  A water clear waterborne finish will also reduce blotching.  Using either method, especially the waterborne finish, gives a cure that is worse than the disease reducing the richness of color that makes cherry a wonderful wood.  In my mind oil based finishes, and/or dark shellacs, such as garnet shellac, give the most attractive results on cherry. 

2. 
   bones | Nov 30, 2010 06:29pm | #5

   Sealer

   The sealer is just that a sealer and I did try a test piece prior to the first job I did with out on one side and with on another and it did have some evening effects and evened out the application and made applying the finishing easier.   I tend to follow the mfg reccomendations as they know their products and how to get the best out of their products.  They should know their chemestry.  Products by manufacturers are desiged to perform a task.  A lot of folks believe sealers are a wase of time and a gimick.  If that were completely true the company could not survive as it would become very evident.  Some folks beleive that sealers are fine but insist on one form i.e. shellac, or a particular brand over another.  For me, what ever brand  used, I tend to use that lines products and not mix and match.   Cherry, no matter what you do will blush some ( I think it's a nicer word) you can only limit it.    I tend to emphasize it, but I don't want it looking like its got scarlet fever.     Others like in the furniture industry will use maple sprayed to look like cherry to get an even tone.   To me its natural and let it be.    No matter what you pick, get a sample piece from the boards you will be using (as it will vary greatly), and go through the complete finishing process from start to finish to see how it will turn out.  Most of the time you can replicate results.   My brother was the one who reccomended the waterlox for cherry and I have to say it's my favorite finish.   If you think about it, it's primary use is floors.  It's got to be tough.   I will stipulate that I have not used the high gloss verson only the satin so I can't speak to its properties.

2. 
   MarkC | Dec 09, 2010 09:41pm | #6

   The blotching/blushing doesn't bother me at all, in fact I'd prefer that there be some showing.  It's part of what makes cherry.  Thanks for the advice guys.  I'm gonna try the Waterlox and see how it does.