Replies

1. 
   woodaddict | Mar 23, 2002 06:03pm | #1

   You might want to consider raw tung oil (not polymerized). This is safe and makes a nice looking finish. Mineral oil is another alternative- this oil will not go rancid. I like to use mineral oil and beeswax for a foodsafe finish on cutting boards. You just heat the mineral oil in a pot on the stove (not too hot) and shave beeswax into it until it makes a paste when cool.

   Hope this helps

   Paul

1. 
   IanC | Mar 24, 2002 02:46pm | #3

   Paul,  I was in Highland Hardware yesterday and the finishing guru there recommended Waterlox tung oil.  He said it was non-building which I assume means non-polymerized as you suggested.  Let me know if you see a problem with Waterlox as it will be sometime before I'm ready to apply it.  Thanks for your input.  

1. 
   woodaddict | Mar 24, 2002 06:40pm | #5

   Hi Ian, I'm not familiar with Waterlox- we don't have highland hardware up here in the great white north. I get mine from Lee Valley and it is called pure tung oil. I'm pretty sure that I read somewhere that even the polymerized kind is non toxic once it is thoroughly dry.

   I think that they put thinner in it which is not foodsafe, but once it dries the thinner evaporates and it's not a problem

   Paul

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 24, 2002 03:04am | #2

   First, decide whether you will be cutting and chopping directly on it.  If so, the traditional finish is either mineral oil or a chopping block finish of a mixture of 5-6 parts mineral oil to one part paraffin.  Heal the mineral oil in a double boiler and slice some paraffin in it.  Apply liberally, let soak in and harden, use a card scraper to remove the excess and buff if you want.  Renew whenever necessary.

   For a countertop that will not get directly chopped or cut on, any good interior varnish or  poly varnish will work well.  Just be sure sure to completely clean and scrape the existing top.

1. 
   IanC | Mar 24, 2002 02:50pm | #4

   Howie,  I'm only planning one small chopping area on the island, the rest will basically be a landing surface.   I'll keep your recipe.  Thanks.

3. 
   TerryH13 | Mar 25, 2002 05:04pm | #6

   Ian,

   Go to http://www.grizzly.com and do a search for "GOOD STUFF"". It is made by "Bally Block & Michigan Maple Block company". The price is 1/4pt-$9.95, pr-$14.95, qt-19.95.

   I purchased one of Bally 25"x36x1.5 maple blocks and am real pleased with it. They suggested that for refinishing blocks such as yours to use the "Good Stuff". It is non-toxic etc. I bought it because I also have some couter tops that are maple and need refinishing. Hope this helps.

   best Regards,

   Terry

1. 
   sschefer | Mar 25, 2002 07:59pm | #7

   Maple Butcher blocks require constant care. Regular cleaning will remove most of whatever non-toxic finsh product you use. For that reason, I suggest just using Mineral Oil since it will be the most afordable solution. A simple wipedown about once every two weeks when you're doing the regular Kitchen chores should take care of your problem. Also, get your Mineral Oil at the grocery store. The stuff you get at places that sell finishing materials is no different and doesnt seem to last any longer. However, it cost about 5 times a much.Steve - in Northern California

   If the doctor says you have Attention Deficit Disorder, do you pay attention to him?