Replies

1. 
   Jimma | Feb 05, 2005 05:50pm | #1

   Why not use the oil that's most often used on the "real" thing -- mineral oil. It will give the end grain a soft, but natural look and won't dry out. You could also use other natural oils like walnut oil, but definitely stay away from food oils that will get rancid. That's what's great about mineral oil; it undures and doesn't change character. It's also not a surface finish and can be renewed easily. Plus -- you could cut on it if you change your mind.

1. 
   jtandrews | Feb 05, 2005 06:43pm | #2

   THere is no end grain.  Perhaps a better description would be a bowling alley.  The wood as actually quatersawn as it turns out. 

   In your post I believe you said the mineral oil is not a renewable finish.  Do you mean that the finish is not repairable?  My thinking is that an oiled finish would be easier to reapair.  THis is why I am leaning this ay.

   Do I have something wrong, or am I just confused?

   Thanks.

   Jeff

    

    

    

1. 
   Jimma | Feb 05, 2005 07:07pm | #3

   Sorry, I thought you meant it was an end-grain glueup like butcher block. In any case, I think you could use mineral oil, but I've never used it on large areas of edge grain. I know you could use boiled linseed oil, as well, but it isn't a food-grade finish until it's thoroughly cured and it has an odor for a time. Why don't you try some of each on a piece of scrap first? Mineral oil is available in drug stores in small quantities. The nice thing about mineral oil is it can be renewed with just a wipe and it only takes a few minutes to soak in. See what you think on a scrap piece.

2. 
   forestgirl | Feb 05, 2005 08:02pm | #4

   Jim said "can be renewed easily"  I'd encourage you to use mineral oil also.  Definitely stay away from any plant oils, not only because they can turn rancide, but also because some of then are dangerous allergens for some people (peanut oil, walnut oil).  Lots of discussion on this in the past.

   BTW, when you're responding to a post, if you need to refer to the author's word, scroll down to the bottom of the page you're on (where you're typing your response).  The message you are responding to is at the bottom of the page.

   Good luck with your project!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   jtandrews | Feb 06, 2005 04:35am | #5

   Thanks for the tip on replies.  I've been lurking here for years, but I rarely post anything. 

   Having re-read Jim's initial response a few times now, I finally got it right. 

   I'm working on a couple sample pieces right now.  I'm trying the mineral oil, and I am trying Daly's Profin (which is the finish that is on all my cabinets). 

   I found a website for James Boos Butcher Block.  They offer two choices for finish.  The obvious choice for cutting surfaces is mineral oil-based, but they prescribe oiling the tops every few days to maintain a good finish.  They also offer something called "Varnique" for surfaces that are not used for cutting.  I couldn't find anything on the web for Varnique that wasn't associated with Boos.  I think it's some proprietary finish they create.

   I am worried about maintenance oiling.  I don't want to be a slave to this thing once it's done.  But, it appears I am looking for a solution that is mutually exclusive.  Perhaps the Daly's will get me there.

   Thanks again.

   Jeff

    

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 06, 2005 11:07am | #6

   Meant to mention -- heat the mineral oil before application.  It helps it apply more easily.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   hammer1 | Feb 07, 2005 04:56pm | #7

   I've made countless cutting boards from scrap lumber for gifts. Mineral oil doesn't last very long, it disappears, especially if the cutting boards go on display in stead of being used. Behlen makes a salad bowl finish that is pretty good. Commercial kitchens wash everything down with bleach water regularly, we should do the same. Nothing I know stands up to bleach for long. The tops I've made for commercial use, mostly maple, go unfinished. To get a nice look on the cherry, the salad bowl finish will work and you won't have to renew it as often as mineral oil.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   MatthewSchenker | Feb 07, 2005 06:48pm | #8

   jtandrews,
   I make lots of cutting boards and butcher blocks. I use mineral oil, whether it's a butcher-block style board with end grain up or a striped cutting board with edge-grain up. Mineral oil works great in either situation.

   As Forestgirl mentioned, stay away from vegatable oils. That means no olive oil, canola oil, etc. Save them for your salad.

   Walnut oil makes a great finish for cutting boards: it spreads well and forms a slight shell. But, again stealing from Forestgirl, it can cause allergies in some people. From what I understand, it can even be fatal in some people. It's too bad, because walnut oil really is a nice way to finish blocks.

   Just to confuse you further, you can also choose to leave the wood unfinished.

   Conclusion: if you want a safe finish, go with mineral oil.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/7/2005 10:49 am ET by Matthew Schenker

4. 
   Kell | Feb 08, 2005 01:34am | #9

   jtandrews,

   My wife and I renovated our kitchen last year and I made wood countertops.  One is hard maple and the others are walnut.  No cutting is done on any of them.  We've finished them with General Finishes tung oil varnish in satin (David Marks uses this) and after 5 coats they looked smashing.  The Maple surrounds the sink so it gets rather extreme use but it still looks terrific.  The walnut counters are used for food prep and even the areas on either side of the stove look great. 

   I can recommend it after about 4 months of use, any longer and you'll have to wait.

   Kell