Replies

1. 
   jhonbaker | Jan 10, 2010 01:12pm | #1

   page 3 - figure 8 - letter R - does this answer your question?

   This is exactly like the Grizzly jig I got for x-mas - I'll play with it later so I can get a better idea if you need to know more.

2. 
   miserybob | Jan 10, 2010 03:07pm | #2

   Those jigs are wierdly counterintuitive... there always seems to be one more knob than you should have to turn to get the piece to move correctly! If I haven't used mine in a while, it takes a few minutes to get the damned thing working properly.

   Figure 8 is your answer, mostly, I think. The problem is probably that Part No. 16 (in the exploded view at the end of the manual) is not locked down properly by lever 06 (or knob K in figure 8). If it isn't, you get the problem you are describing - the jig will move toward the blade when the knob is turned far enough, but never away from the blade.

   Try this - Unlock both J & K. Turn knob M counter-clockwise until the jig moves toward the blade. Then Lock K and turn knob M clockwise. That should move the jig away from the blade.

   Anyway, I think it's part 16 that's giving you problems. Knob K should lock it into place in the body of the jig and it should not move thereafter unless you have to adjust it to get more distance from the blade - threaded rod 12 should move instead.

   If that doesn't work, it could have to do with part 22 and knob 18 that goes with it.

   Let us know if you get it workin'!

1. 
   kmetzger | Jan 12, 2010 08:49pm | #5

   Many thanks to all of you for your suggestions. Sorry it took so long for me to reply. Miserybob's suggestion was what did the trick: "it's part 16 that's giving you problems. Knob K should lock it into place in the body of the jig and it should not move thereafter unless you have to adjust it to get more distance from the blade" Thanks again.

3. 
   dantt | Jan 10, 2010 03:11pm | #3

   Is there something wrong with figure 11, 13 and 14 in the instruction pdf? It seems the handles are placed behind the blade. So while pushing the fixture past the saw blade a person's hand will have to be over the fixture instead of behind the fixture. Look at the blade teeth and the handles. I use a Delta and it is difficult to set up. I had to do trial and error experiments until I found my way of using it. The instructions were not useful. It does work well for multiple tenons. For one or two, I saw cut them and true them with a shoulder plane.

   Dan

   Dan

4. 
   Napie | Jan 10, 2010 03:20pm | #4

   It is really very simple, return it, get your money back and build your own. That is one of the simplest jigs to do yourself. Mine are all from scrap and assembled with Miller Dowels (just in case...). I have a few that are set for different cuts because the easiest way to adjust any jig is to have one that doesn't adjust.

1. 
   dgreen | Jan 13, 2010 04:15am | #6

   I love those Miller dowels!