Hellop All,
I am about to replace the veneered-MDF table tops in my dining room with glued-up maple boards that have been sanded, routered, and stained. They came out nice for my first table tops. I am using the existing bases which are wrought iron. I am planning on fastening the table tops to the bases with wood screws which were also used for the veneered-MDF tops (with the screws coming up through a screw hole in the base and into the maple board from the bottom). Does anyone anticipate a problem by fastening in this manner now that the tops will be glued-up maple vs MDF? I am concerned due to possible movement of the boards and the possibility of the boards cracking. This is my first table-top and the last thing I want is to have this happen when the actual tops came out very nice…Thank You…
Regards,
Buzzsaw
Replies
Yup, a good chance for shrinkage problems. What is the longest dimension, going crossgrain, between screws on one side of the metal frame to the other?
John W.
OK, the end table tops are only 2'X2'. The coffee table top is 4' X 2'. There are only 4 screws in each table top, pretty much a little bit in from each corner. So, for example, the coffee table top is made up of 6 boards glued lengthwise (4 - 1"X6"X4' boards and 2 - 1"X3"X4' boards (these 1"X3"X4's will be used on each end to add some more length). So across grain, if I understand your question, would be a maximum of 2'. If I am unclear please let me know. ThanksRegards,
Buzzsaw
If you live in a climate, or ever expect to, where you have very dry winters and humid summers, then the table top will be 3/4 inch wider in the humid part of the year than in the driest, so your mounting system needs to take this into account.
This is based on flat sawn hard maple which moves a lot, if it is quarter sawn it will only move half as much. Flat sawn soft maple will move around 1/2 inch between winter and summer.
If the 1x3's are going crosswise to the grain of the table top ( breadboard ends), then these will also have to allow for the 3/4 inch expansion and contraction.
John W.
JohnW,
The 1X3s will be in the same direction as all the other boards. I'm just using them to make the table a little wider to somewhat match the existing width. I'm thinking that it may make sense to create a 1X6 frame for a sub-base. Attach the wrought-iron base to the sub-base with the screws and the screw holes that are existing in the wrought-iron base. Then I can attach the frame to the newly-created table top using screws but create a slightly elongated hole in the frame to allow for movement of the table top. This solution was with the assistance of another poster, David Shafron. My question to him was would the elongation be in the direction of the grain (or lengthwise)? Thanks for your interest.
Regards,
Buzzsaw
It will expand and contract across the grain, or, perpendicular to the run of the grain. One trick would be to screw it down, hand tighten, from the bottom with two screws on each end each set about 2" on either side of the centerline. This will let the outside edges 'float'. If. with time, the outside edges start to curl up, then screw them down, loosley, with a screw hole on the bottom that is slotted. This will still let the outside edges move. Center a flat bottom screw in a 1/2" long slot.
Expansion/contraction along the length of the grain is minimal (next to nothing).
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Planewood,
I went out at lunch time and bought some table top fasteners. It will require me to use a sub-base so I can screw the wrought-iron base to the sub-base. The sub-base will have a slot cut in the edge using a table saw. Then I can screw in the fastener to the table top and the other end will fit in the slot. I feel comfortable using this method...Thanks..Regards,
Buzzsaw
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