I’m making the low console featured in the FW Sept/Oct 2008 and I have a small 1/32″ space between one of the miter joints on the top cherry edging.
My question is, what’s a good way to fill in that space and not result in an eyesore?
Thanks & happy New Year, Jim
Replies
I take my jack plane and get a thick shaving from a peice of scrap wood. Then I apply glue to both sides of the shaving and shim it into the gap and trim it off.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try your method.Jim
Best wait till the finishing is done then fill to match the finish color.
I think I'll try Hakenson's technique and take a shaving from the same piece of wood and the finish should match.Thanks, Jim
James,
If you simply poke a shim into the gap, its end grain will be facing out, and will contrast with the long grain of the molding when the finish is applied. Aligning the edge grain of the shim will yield a better match, but will be more difficult to insert due to the flimsiness of the edge grain orientation. The color will still be slightly different (catch the light differently) since the grain is running along the joint, not into it, as the two moldings are doing.
Better to try and bump or draw the gap together with a clamp (run from the end of one of the runs of mold to the joint), if it isn't too firmly glued in place. If the gap isn't too wide, you can massage the mitered ends of the moldings together with a round burnisher (nail set or phillips screwdriver shaft) rolled right down the corner. Of course, I've only read about this remedy, having never needed to use it myself ;-))
Ray
Thanks for the feedback Ray. I thought about the grain problem, so my first option will be to try clamping it. If that doesn't work I'll try the shim.
It looked so good during the dry fit. As much as I enjoy woodworking it does have its trying moments.Thanks again, Jim
If you're good with colors and pigments you can try this method. With a rare earth pigment set from Lee Valley,plus you need some titanium white, I fill the joint with whatever, then I mix the pigments, like an artist, into any clear medium such as mineral spirits, or acrylic, and using a very fine artists brush (about 1/16") I simply paint it away. I often have to do it several times since the color wet is often not the same as dry. If you're good enough, you can even replicate variegated wood such as zebra or cocobolo. When I'm done the joint is completely invisible.Of course, I know that will go over like a lead balloon with the purists.
Edited 1/2/2009 6:53 pm ET by saragosa
"Of course, I know that will go over like a lead balloon with the purists."
What a dumb statement! Everyone should know that purists never make any mistakes, and therefore have no need for innovative ways to erase them. <gr>
You are probably right, which explains my opinion of purists."The craftsman's greatest skill is the ability to fix his mistakes." The master craftsman who said that insisted on remaining anonymous.
Edited 1/2/2009 7:34 pm ET by saragosa
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